VW recalls 800,000 vehicles for brake light failures

On 26 Feb 2007 22:55:31 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:


I hope it's ok to copy / post some other persons message , This post I found tonight in the rec.volkwagon.aircooled group.
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On Tue, 27 Feb 2007 09:11:14 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

OK , the coffee did not kick in just yet - the group was alt.volkswagon.beetle --- oops
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Nothing new with that! The last recall was to replace the black switch with a new and improved purple switch, and then VW blamed us techs for not installing them correctly. Now it's a green switch... so time will tell.

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: Nothing new with that! The last recall was to replace the black switch with : a new and improved purple switch, and then VW blamed us techs for not : installing them correctly. Now it's a green switch... so time will tell.
The story I read says if you already had it replaced, you don't need to have it replaced again, all they did was expand the recall, not recall the cars already fixed;
"Volkswagen recalls nearly 800,000 vehicles because of faulty brake lights February 26, 2007 BY KEN THOMAS Associated Press
WASHINGTON -- Volkswagen of America Inc. said Monday it would recall 790,000 vehicles because of problems with the brake light switch.
The recall involves several vehicles: 1999-2006 model years of the Golf and GTI, 2001-2005 Jettas, 2001-2007 New Beetles and the 2004 R32. It expands upon a recall announced last year of some Jettas and New Beetles because of the same defect. . . . He said owners of 2001-2002 Jettas and New Beetles who already had the repairs completed following last year's recall would not need to return for a second time. ..."
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John Nelson
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If only there would be a recall to fix the water leaks into the passenger compartments of nearly all Jetta's since 2000. Does anyone own a Jetta that hasn't had water inside after a really hard rain?

fundamentalism, fundamentally wrong.
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I do. My '85 was the only leaker I've had.
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Must be nice, mine after the rains yesterday down south reminded me of the movie "On Golden Pond".
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Mine doesn't leak.
Do you have a sunroof ... and if so, are the drain lines clear?
wrote:

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Yes
... and if so, are the drain lines clear?
No idea, where in the maual is this mentioned? Actually more to the point how does one clean them and why do they need cleaning? I never heard of such before, Toyota Honda BMW etc don't seem to need 'drain lines' cleaned.
Thanks for your help!
(2002 Jetta Wagon, TDI auto trans)

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Open the sunroof. There's a drain line in each corner. The two in the front exit the vehicle inside the front door, you'll see rubber one way valves near the hinges on the A-pillar. The rear drains exit under the car at each side of the trunk beneath the light assembly. Two ways to clear them - one is compressed air to blow then out, the other is a flexible cable about 90" long to run thru the drain lines. If you have a Bentley manual, look on page 60-10.
wrote:

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Thanks, wonder why water that builds up in these lines leaks into the car around the door and not dripping down from the sun roof.
Thanks again for the tip, I'll sure give this a try and hope for the best, we are over the next several weeks going to be in my local rainy season.

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My light by the visors filled up with water when mine clogged in my 2003 Jetta. I had to squeeze the rubber nipples by the door to unclog them. The flexible weedwacker string did not do the trick on one. I guess that is something you should do once in a while when you are washing the door jambs.
On Fri, 02 Mar 2007 14:51:38 GMT, rico snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Rico) wrote:

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On Feb 27, 6:53 pm, "Lost In Space/Woodchuck"

Hey all ... you seem to be a pretty knowldgeable group so I hope someone responds ...
I have a '06 New Beetle Convertible, manual trans ... bought April '06 and stored starting October '06. In January of '07, I went into my shed to check out the vehicle and found that the battery was dead. When I stored it in October, I had hooked up a charger (2-watt SolarPulse) without disconnecting the battery from the car's electrical system. At first I thought it was the solar battery charger gone bad but it checked out. Then I heard about the brake light recall. Here's my questions ... could the brake lights have activated by themselves in my shed over the winter and drained my battery? If not, any ideas why my battery went dead? If you think the brake lights might have killed my juice, do the VW Tech's out there think that any damage could have been done to my battery? If the answer to the last question is "yes," do you think I can complain to my VW dealer and have them pony up for a new battery? I would appreciate any and all advice that you care to provide!
Thanks, pluto
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Are you saying that the solar charger was in daylight while the car was stored so it could make a charge? Did you have the car locked and the alarm on? I think I have read that the car uses less electricity when the alarm is on.
How is the water level in the battery? My 2003 has 6 cells that are "easy" to check the water level. You just peel off some stickers to get to the caps. What is the voltage of the "dead" battery?
On 18 Mar 2007 09:42:52 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@msn.com wrote:

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On 20 Mar 2007 05:28:38 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@msn.com wrote:

New tools , YES! ;-) and the dvom is something you can use on all kinds of things, not just vehicles. And with the equinox happening you'll have a fully charged batt. in no time.

I doubt that the switch closed by itself.

I doubt the clutch depressed w/o the key on has any ( ? , sec. sys, tho ) effect on the electrical system.. ( and IMHO you most likely caused rust more with the plate off the flywheel ) that's neither here nor there in so far as your dead battery goes....... BUT because the two pedals are next to each other and you had some kind of device holding the clutch down my guess is that is involved with the dead batt. Either you pushed the brake pedal and the switch stuck or the device you had holding the clutch in also was pushing the brake and that switch closed.

I thought I had the 'radio code thing ' procedure stored for posting to ppl in here but I couldn't find that this morning , but if your operators manual doesn't have it ask in here and someone will. It is very simple IIRC. Ask about their charges for checking the battery before they do it and the clutch depressed routine sounds to me likey the cause of the battery going dead so your batt. is probably fine.

The electronics in the keep alive / security circuits are very low wattage devices and the solar charger should have been able to to keep up with that drain locked or unlocked....but yes , why not lock it anyway.

yw . Great , I'm happy to help if I can - and it's always nice to hear outcomes. Some post here with question / problems and get replies and you never hear from them again, so the ' ass u me ' thinking happens to the responders ( with them knowing ,LOL , their cure was the fix ) ..

Sometimes the problem is fixed and posters say thanks but don't indicate which suggestion worked.. :-o older vw van - O 2 light - speedometer cable reset location - either on the back of the speedometer or on the cable under the hood. - lol - dpluta - that paragraph was not directed at you , just me getting a laff. I'm easily entertained.

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On Mar 20, 9:58 am, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

What a reply! ... thanks so much for spending the time to talk back. It feels great to be able to have someone to consult with who knows their stuff.
Well, my new multimeter says the battery voltage today is 11.2 volts. (I compared to my 5-year old battery in my F-150 and it was reading 12.4 v, so it seems the meter is working fine and I'm setting/reading it the right way too).
I haven't tried to turn the engine over yet since I won't be ready to pull it out for the summer until the first week of April ... once I start it, I want to be able to drive it around for a half hour or so. But I'm feeling confident that I ought to be able to turn it over on its own power without jumping it or using an A/C battery charger to top off the battery.
I looked in my 2006 VW book for my "Radio Card" for the code and I didn't see it. Either the dealer never gave it to me or I don't need it ...there was something in the Owners Manual about not needing to enter the code anymore if the power gets disconnected ... something about a "convenience code" that matches the radio to the right vehicle automatically ... fingers are crossed.
BTW, I don't think I'm ever going to depress the clutch pedal for the winter any more either ... I wanted to do the right thing for storage but I kind of agree with you ... seems it would be better just to leave it alone, or maybe just press the clutch in a couple of times myself over the winter.
If the radio synchs itself up in a couple of weeks, then it looks like I'm all set. So, thanks for your help. I wish I could return the favor. I'm a writer at marketing company, so if you ever need something written or edited, let me know!
Regards,
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Actually that should be: for brake light _potential_ failures.
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Joseph Meehan

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Joseph Meehan wrote:

Hopefully they will handle this one better than the heater core recall or the window regulator recall. Oh, yeah, and the coil recall (although I didn't get burned by that one; by the time I even had an issue they'd sorted out their supply chain problem)
nate
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They already botched it IMHO:

Basically if all Mk4s use this switch, why weren't all of them recalled the FIRST time around?
<sarcasm> Go VW. </sarcasm>
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O.K. I get the recall thing ... but recently my ABS and Traction control lights both came on (2000 VW Beetle 1.8 T) and my vw guy said it was the rear right wheel sensor gone bad... so $130 later it is replaced. Now the lights are and off and on and off ... and I had it scanned when the lights were on and viola ... now the left rear wheel sensor is bad (so says my mechanicman).
He swears it is not related to the recall, but he is not VW dealership mechanic ... what would you guys do? Trust the scan of the lights? or skip it all and go get the recall checked first?
Robin

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