Nothing new with that! The last recall was to replace the black switch with
a new and improved purple switch, and then VW blamed us techs for not
installing them correctly. Now it's a green switch... so time will tell.
: Nothing new with that! The last recall was to replace the black switch with
: a new and improved purple switch, and then VW blamed us techs for not
: installing them correctly. Now it's a green switch... so time will tell.
The story I read says if you already had it replaced, you don't need to
have it replaced again, all they did was expand the recall, not recall the
cars already fixed;
"Volkswagen recalls nearly 800,000 vehicles because of faulty brake lights
February 26, 2007
BY KEN THOMAS Associated Press
WASHINGTON -- Volkswagen of America Inc. said Monday it would recall 790,000
vehicles because of problems with the brake light switch.
The recall involves several vehicles: 1999-2006 model years of the Golf and
GTI, 2001-2005 Jettas, 2001-2007 New Beetles and the 2004 R32. It expands
upon a recall announced last year of some Jettas and New Beetles because of
the same defect.
He said owners of 2001-2002 Jettas and New Beetles who already had the
repairs completed following last year's recall would not need to return
for a second time. ..."
... and if so, are the drain lines clear?
No idea, where in the maual is this mentioned? Actually more to the point
how does one clean them and why do they need cleaning? I never heard of
such before, Toyota Honda BMW etc don't seem to need 'drain lines' cleaned.
Thanks for your help!
(2002 Jetta Wagon, TDI auto trans)
Open the sunroof. There's a drain line in each corner. The two in the front
exit the vehicle inside the front door, you'll see rubber one way valves
near the hinges on the A-pillar. The rear drains exit under the car at each
side of the trunk beneath the light assembly. Two ways to clear them - one
is compressed air to blow then out, the other is a flexible cable about 90"
long to run thru the drain lines. If you have a Bentley manual, look on page
Thanks, wonder why water that builds up in these lines leaks into the car
around the door and not dripping down from the sun roof.
Thanks again for the tip, I'll sure give this a try and hope for the best,
we are over the next several weeks going to be in my local rainy season.
My light by the visors filled up with water when mine clogged in my
2003 Jetta. I had to squeeze the rubber nipples by the door to unclog
them. The flexible weedwacker string did not do the trick on one. I
guess that is something you should do once in a while when you are
washing the door jambs.
On Fri, 02 Mar 2007 14:51:38 GMT, rico email@example.com (Rico) wrote:
Hey all ... you seem to be a pretty knowldgeable group so I hope
someone responds ...
I have a '06 New Beetle Convertible, manual trans ... bought April '06
and stored starting October '06. In January of '07, I went into my
shed to check out the vehicle and found that the battery was dead.
When I stored it in October, I had hooked up a charger (2-watt
SolarPulse) without disconnecting the battery from the car's
electrical system. At first I thought it was the solar battery
charger gone bad but it checked out. Then I heard about the brake
light recall. Here's my questions ... could the brake lights have
activated by themselves in my shed over the winter and drained my
battery? If not, any ideas why my battery went dead? If you think
the brake lights might have killed my juice, do the VW Tech's out
there think that any damage could have been done to my battery? If
the answer to the last question is "yes," do you think I can complain
to my VW dealer and have them pony up for a new battery? I would
appreciate any and all advice that you care to provide!
Are you saying that the solar charger was in daylight while the car
was stored so it could make a charge? Did you have the car locked and
the alarm on? I think I have read that the car uses less electricity
when the alarm is on.
How is the water level in the battery? My 2003 has 6 cells that are
"easy" to check the water level. You just peel off some stickers to
get to the caps. What is the voltage of the "dead" battery?
On 18 Mar 2007 09:42:52 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
On 20 Mar 2007 05:28:38 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
New tools , YES! ;-) and the dvom is something you can use
on all kinds of things, not just vehicles. And with the equinox happening
you'll have a fully charged batt. in no time.
I doubt that the switch closed by itself.
I doubt the clutch depressed w/o the key on has any ( ? , sec. sys, tho )
effect on the electrical system.. ( and IMHO you most likely caused
rust more with the plate off the flywheel ) that's neither here nor there
in so far as your dead battery goes....... BUT because the two pedals
are next to each other and you had some kind of device holding the clutch
down my guess is that is involved with the dead batt. Either you pushed the
brake pedal and the switch stuck or the device you had holding the clutch
in also was pushing the brake and that switch closed.
I thought I had the 'radio code thing ' procedure stored for posting to
ppl in here but I couldn't find that this morning , but if your operators
manual doesn't have it ask in here and someone will. It is very simple
IIRC. Ask about their charges for checking the battery before they do it
and the clutch depressed routine sounds to me likey the cause of the battery
going dead so your batt. is probably fine.
The electronics in the keep alive / security circuits are very low
wattage devices and the solar charger should have been able to
to keep up with that drain locked or unlocked....but yes , why not
lock it anyway.
yw . Great , I'm happy to help if I can - and it's always nice to hear
outcomes. Some post here with question / problems and get replies
and you never hear from them again, so the ' ass u me ' thinking
happens to the responders ( with them knowing ,LOL , their cure was
the fix ) ..
Sometimes the problem is fixed and posters say thanks but don't
indicate which suggestion worked.. :-o older vw van - O 2 light -
speedometer cable reset location - either on the back of the
speedometer or on the cable under the hood. - lol -
dpluta - that paragraph was not directed at you , just me getting
a laff. I'm easily entertained.
On Mar 20, 9:58 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
What a reply! ... thanks so much for spending the time to talk back.
It feels great to be able to have someone to consult with who knows
Well, my new multimeter says the battery voltage today is 11.2 volts.
(I compared to my 5-year old battery in my F-150 and it was reading
12.4 v, so it seems the meter is working fine and I'm setting/reading
it the right way too).
I haven't tried to turn the engine over yet since I won't be ready to
pull it out for the summer until the first week of April ... once I
start it, I want to be able to drive it around for a half hour or so.
But I'm feeling confident that I ought to be able to turn it over on
its own power without jumping it or using an A/C battery charger to
top off the battery.
I looked in my 2006 VW book for my "Radio Card" for the code and I
didn't see it. Either the dealer never gave it to me or I don't need
it ...there was something in the Owners Manual about not needing to
enter the code anymore if the power gets disconnected ... something
about a "convenience code" that matches the radio to the right vehicle
automatically ... fingers are crossed.
BTW, I don't think I'm ever going to depress the clutch pedal for the
winter any more either ... I wanted to do the right thing for storage
but I kind of agree with you ... seems it would be better just to
leave it alone, or maybe just press the clutch in a couple of times
myself over the winter.
If the radio synchs itself up in a couple of weeks, then it looks like
I'm all set. So, thanks for your help. I wish I could return the
favor. I'm a writer at marketing company, so if you ever need
something written or edited, let me know!
Hopefully they will handle this one better than the heater core recall
or the window regulator recall. Oh, yeah, and the coil recall (although
I didn't get burned by that one; by the time I even had an issue they'd
sorted out their supply chain problem)
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
O.K. I get the recall thing ... but recently my ABS and Traction control
lights both came on (2000 VW Beetle 1.8 T) and my vw guy said it was the
rear right wheel sensor gone bad... so $130 later it is replaced. Now the
lights are and off and on and off ... and I had it scanned when the lights
were on and viola ... now the left rear wheel sensor is bad (so says my
He swears it is not related to the recall, but he is not VW dealership
mechanic ... what would you guys do? Trust the scan of the lights? or skip
it all and go get the recall checked first?
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