Audis Not Reliable after 100,000 kilometers??

Saw a post in another thread that said Audi's are less reliable after 100,000 kilometers/62,000 miles. Have a '99 A4 1.8T at 54k miles, with an expensive service coming up at 60k miles.
In the last year, I've replaced both headlights, fixed the pneumatic locks (failed hose) and just had to replace a battery. Also needs new tires. Otherwise, quite an enjoyable and reliable machine.
Should I invest in a $500-$600 dealer service at 60k miles, replace the tires, etc. and keep until 75k-100k miles? Or consider selling before 60k miles and buy a new car?
Any thoughts??
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a buyer may have done their homework, as I would, and think this car is nearing an expensive time.....perhaps I will stay clear.
many vehicles are less reliable after 60K so it sounds like better the devil you know + you said yourself, an enjoyable and reliable machine.
also some NEW vehicles are less reliable BEFORE 60K miles.
tonka (A4 2.4 V6 SE '97)
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I am driving an A4 1.8TQM (chipped) with 103k. Aside from regular dealer service, including the early timing belt replacement (did the 90k service at 83k), I have bought 6 or so tires and one headlight. That's it.
This has been the most reliable car I have ever owned, even after 60k (I added the Wetterauer chip at 55k).
Eric
On Sat, 14 Aug 2004 21:55:19 -0700, "Dan Eilerman"

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My present A6 has run 260.000 km. ( 160.000 miles ) and is virtually troublefree, my old Audi 100 was wrecked by some moron at 450.000 km ( 290.000 miles ) and was still very reliable.
If all your problems in 5 years has been a pair of headlights and a loose vacuum hose I can΄t see why any reason to bee unsatisfied.
You can΄t blame Audi for battery and tyres they are not everlasting.
Greetings Aksel
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If you like the car, sell it and buy another Audi. You are at point where the value of your car is still very good and it should be easy to get a decent price for it.

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My audi coupe quattro has 273,000 miles on the clock, and is currently off the road because it needs a new clutch, and I've taken the opportunity to give it a quick engine rebuild as the head has never been off.
Five years for a battery isn't that far off the mark, that's why a normal battery has a four-year warranty at least here in the UK. As for the headlights it's hard to say without knowing why you needed to replace them. I have replaced the headlights once in the coupe because it was a 'known fault' that the reflectors rust.
I am running a TT roadster at the moment, and I definitely think that these newer cars with more electronics are more of a problem waiting to happen. I won't be keeping this for as long as the coupe, not least because in the event of a fault I have no option but to pay a dealer to fix it.
Mike.

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Thanks, all. I'm leaning toward putting about $1,000 or so into the car for a 60k miles service a little early at 55k miles, to include replacing the timing belt early as a preventative measure, and requesting a check on the front axle given the reported problems with the control arms. I'll also get the new tires that I sorely need.
I've never had serious problems with the car and love driving it. I just am moderately worried when reading about the (expensive) control arm problems on A4's - and the reports of timing belts going early. My car's pretty simple; no quattro and no special options. So hopefully I'll get another 25k miles without a major repair. I don't sweat the small stuff after 5 years.
But if I get these checked out at 55k, I should be able to avoid the dreaded new car payment. Once you get used to not having a car payment, it's hard to go back. ; ) Thanks

an
locks
60k
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for
get
am
dreaded
At 60.000 miles the timing belt must be changed, be shure that all rollers, tensioners and water pump is changed too, the waterpump is usually very reliable, and cheap, but the work costs for changing is the same as for the timing belt, at least on the V6 engines.

I guess that US cars still use the sealed beam headlamps that is unknown in Europe because of the very bad output.
Greetings Aksel
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No, they're not exactly 'sealed beams' any more. A sealed beam unit was just that: a *unit*. It included the bulb (or filament), reflector, and lens all in one piece. Under $10 at most stores. Marque-specific aerodynamic and styled lights brought an end to all that.
Now, the requirement for sealing is met by an O-ring on the base of the bulb insert while the lens and reflector is a single unit just as it is in most all European cars. Objectively, it combines the best of both worlds, making a better-sealed headlamp than Europeans were used to (I've seen those laughable rubber boots on the back of Hella H4 lamps!) and the *potential for* a superior reflector and optics that the old 'throwaway' units rarely had.
What really makes for the lousy output of US-spec lamps is parts of the stupid lighting rules imposed by our ironically-named 'Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards'. Among other things, we're not allowed to have the sharp upper cutoff that EU lamps have. Apparently, only Audi interpreted this as, "We have to give them totally crappy lamps." -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; didn't buy that)
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Nope! They're absolute crap! Sell it ASAP!

'Consider', hell! Sell it now!

Yup. Dump it. I'll give you $1,500 for the POS. -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; didn't buy that - yet)
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