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Front cargo carrier did fine.
- 07-25-2011
- DogDiesel
July 25, 2011, 5:43 pm
compliments liking it this weekend. At the AMA motorcycle races. At Mid
Ohio race track. It was sure fricking hot though.
I picked up a used Jason cap with windows for $200. And the owner helped me
mount it.
I put some new scratches on it.
Yup, this Chevy truck is finally getting useful.
Gas mileage is sweetest on the freeway.
Vortec V6 is good enuf for me.
underneath rust is way more then my Toyota though. I'm going to have to
do something about that.
And for the record. the Ac in my 2004 Silverado works better then the Ac in
my 2005 Toyota Echo.
Re: Front cargo carrier did fine.
That's good to hear. I finally found a garage that lent me some rack
space for $10 a day so I could pull the front drive out of the way and get
to the oil pan to replace a loud rod bearing. Hot here also so I spread
the work out over a few days. Easy enough to find the culprit without
doing any measurements. A tap with a hammer on the rod and the patient
might have yelled out loud with a bad tooth. Plasti-gauge said .10 under
and that's what I stuck back in. Nice and quiet now. Cost me $50 to rent
a lift and $15 for the aftermarket bearing. Plus $20 for gasket compound
for the oilpan, no real gasket is used. Also cost about a year of arm,
shoulder and back aches, not used to this kind of work. It's not a job
for a couple jack stands and a mechanic's creeper.
Oh the vehicle was an 03 Trailblazer 4x4 4.2 vortec. It's for sale if
anyone wants to buy it :) under 81k miles.
Re: Front cargo carrier did fine.
Depends on what a blown engine means to you I guess. I put almost 1200
miles on this after it started making noise. Funny though when you wanted
power from it up to about 3000 rpm it didn't make noise. Just when you
backed off the throttle and then only until drag took over. .10 under
isn't that much considering that's the upper limit for a normal sized
bearing sleeve. and the journal out of round was well within tolerance.
So i could have stuck a stock speck bearing sleeve back in. Anyway the
bearing replacement was child's play compared to getting the forward
differential out of the way. Had to buy one new tool, a torque degree
gauge. Torquing the cap nuts was 25 lbs for each nut then 110 degrees
after that. I've always relied on ft lbs, this was the first that wanted
110 more degrees of clockwise turn after the initial 25 ft lbs of torque.
A lot of the specs, in Chevy now, head bolts and such are done with an
initial ft lbs then a degree of turn after.
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