2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager 3.3L Engine Timing Chain

I don't know this engine at all, but is the water pump driven by the timing chain, or is the w.p. accessory belt-driven?

Come on, Bill. It's an external w/p driven by the FEAD belt.

Hi!

It's definitely driven by the accessory belt.

My brother and I were on a pretty good roll replacing the Autozone remanufactured water pumps. After the first three (all the same failure--each one started weeping water out of the weep hole) went bad, we just got a new one and it's been fine ever since.

William

Yeah - file that under "When is a warranty not worth a darn?". I went thru that with an alternator one time at Advance - after the third failure, I finally asked for my money back and got one that did cost more at NAPA, but it never gave any trouble.

That engine is not of interference design. It an old fashioned cam in the block with push rods design; not even overhead cam. I sure wouldn't run it with the timing off though.

I can't see where either of those links say whether it's interference or not, and I'm not quite sure how OHC vs. OHV enters into it. According to

I went through that with Pep Boys and an A/C compressor for my '84 Caravan. They went through three of their stock units, each failing within 2 weeks of install. I was fed up and complained to corporate. They went down to the dealer and got a MOPAR original part. Worked fine as long as I owned the car. No cost to me except the original job order and the aggravation.

This is where I think NAPA does an infinitly better job in controlling the quality (parts and assembly) that comes out of their suppliers.

I have developed a philosophy over the years on dealing with this: On critical items, I compare NAPA and the others (which all seem to use the same rebuilders, except NAPA may or may not use the same rebuilder). Where NAPA is clearly using a different supplier (which I now automatically assume is for quality reasons), in general it is worth the extra price they may charge. On an item for which NAPA is using the same rebuilder as the others, that is a sign to me to go with lower price - for example, *all* the chains use the same rebuilt brake booster part for 2nd gen LH cars. NAPA wants $105, Advance wants $85 for the same part, so that part I get at Advance (also, the booster being a critical safety/liability item, a rebuilder and re-seller would have to be insane to skimp on quality on that type of item).

You say that as though it has ANYTHING to do with being an interference engine. It doesn't. In fact, I can tell you that *many* cam-in-block chain-timed engines are interference designs. There's little incentive to NOT make them interference engines and take advantage of the breathing and compression advantages it allows when the chain generally lasts as long as the rest of the engine, unlike a belt. No, it doesn't make you feel any better if you have a chain break and break a valve (and I've been there/done that), but from a design perspective very, very few of any given type of chain-timed engines built will ever jump time. Conversely, a huge fraction of belt-timed engines will jump time at *some* point in their lifespan because of owner neglect and the relatively short life of a timing belt compared to engine internals, so there's motivation to make them non-interference designs. Frequently the performance advantages win and belt-timed interference engines are built. But that, IMO, is still not a very wise choice.

do the usual change water pump,chain tensioners,flush coolant.make sure to get the tool that keeps the timing gears from moving.You probably jumped one tooth which wont matter as far as bent valves are concerned.You would have KNOWN by the sound if the valves hit the pistons.Use a socket and wren ch to move the #! piston to tdc, before removing chain.