Serpenting Belt Noise

My '98 C-5 just had the A/C compressor replaced. Now the belt squeaks. They replaced the tensioner a few months ago and the sqeaking stopped but has
returned since the compressor was replaced. The dealer said it needs a new belt, (not that it's ready to break) just to stop the noise BUT won't guarantee that it will fix the problem.
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Warmest regards,

Steve Horrillo, Realtor / C.Ht. =^..^=
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That's the first place to start.. luckily there arent too many pulleys that the A/C belt goes around (I think 3 crank, a/c compressor, and the tensioner). The belts make a small indentation in the pulleys where they like to sit which could be the cause of the squeek. You'll need patience and a stethoscope to try to isolate where it's coming from if you dont want to replace a bizzillion pulleys in your car. Does it sqeek all the time or when it's cold? or when you give it gas? Could the belt be loose? Also look at the belts and see if there is wear on either of the edges or on the top of it.
-Stan

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sbright wrote:

Back in the dark ages of 'vee' belts we used to attack a squeak by applying a little parafin or lubriplate to the edge of the belt. Probably not the best ploy with a serpentine but it might provide a clue as to which edge is rubbing.
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…PJ
’89 HookerCar, ’02 E-blu 6-spd Coupe
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Thanks' for the reply,
Now it squeaks all the time. When I'm in traffic I can only hear it if I'm next to another car and the sound echos off the other car. The rpm's do seem to alter the pitch of the sound. The belts don't look too bad but I'm at 97,000 miles.
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Warmest regards,

Steve Horrillo, Realtor / C.Ht. =^..^=
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Sometimes those serpentine belts just squeak with no obvious visual indicators..... Crappy answer huh? LOLOL But it's true. :-) Might have to just buy one and see. <shrugs shoulders>
Steve Horrillo wrote:

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Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
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Every time I get my car serviced at a dealer something else seems to go wrong soon after. When I take the car back they alway find something unrelated wrong then charge a over-priced charge to get it fixed. If I treaten to take it somewhere else the service writer politely informs me that to get my car back I'll have to pay diagnostic/teardown/rebuild costs. In Florida is there anything I can do to prevent the dealer from holding me up for these costs... other than to never take it to a dealer that is :)
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Steve Horrillo, Realtor / C.Ht. =^..^=
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Yes there is an arbitration board for auto repairs, see if you can Google it. And there are arbitration boards for everything that has property liens involved, like construction, etc. This is not uncommon with the slash and burn tactics seen by more than a few dealers and garages. Kill 'em all on the first visit and let God sort 'em out. LOLOL
Plus and other option would be to pay for the D/T/R with noted on the check that you are paying under duress and have it also noted on the repair order, write down all conversations and make a timeline and take them to small claims court..... If they see you preparing your self, (check notes and repair order notes) many many times they will cave before you actually end up in front of a judge. And even if you do end up in front of a Judge, chances are he has had to deal with unscrupulous dealers over their lifetime and will give you a very fair shot.
Steve Horrillo wrote:

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Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
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message

if you're unhappy with a dealer ? take it up with GM. http://www.gm.com/gmcomjsp/contactus / at this time, GM is very customer oriented.
happy holidays
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"Key"



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Try to avoid the dealer at all costs...............in Palm Coast, Florida try DOYLE AUTOMOTIVE...very honest very good mechanics..fair book price....dealer estimated $1200 to fix my Cadillac Air ...Doyle found the problem and charged me $89.00 for labor and a new ground wire..
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My extended warranty's underwriter went bust so I'm on my own now. Thnks for the reply.
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All the best,

Keter Pardes
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Why and how can the dealers get away with being so crooked. I SWEAR they sabotage the car. It seems every time I bring it in something else goes wrong. Often on the way home. My relative who was a chevy mechanic said h never heard of sabotage but it happens way too often to be coincidance. I'm considering mounting a couple of hidden cameras. :)
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Keter Pardes
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How true.. The belts run about $20-25 if you want to do it yourself. Of course you could get your flashlight out, turn on the car and try to see if you can see any of the pulleys woble. Oh, also.. just thought of this.. (and I dont know if it applies since I havent really inspected the ac compressor and its 30 degrees out) The pulley on my blower has different offsets depending on which way you bolt it on. If the ac pulley does the same type of thing and it was put on back asswards then you'd have a 1/16in variance and thereby get a squeel. It would shred the edge of the belt though probably. Oh, and one more thing.. the a/c serp. belt sits behind the main serp. belt. We may all be talking about the a/c belt, when in fact it's the other one squeeking since they would have prob. had it off to do the a/c compressor. Mechanics have a stethoscope that has an airtube instead of the flat microphone thing your doc has. If they want to.. (six pack of beer..bottle of JD..etc) they can use it to get a real good idea of where the squeek is.
-Stan

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Take both belts off and turn them around so they rotate in the other direction. This may help. If not, new belts may be necessary.
Dave WI
Steve Horrillo wrote:

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