My first Silver Star burnout came after just one year, and I hardly used them.
There used to be a chart somewhere, I think on Sylvania's own site, that
listed life expectancy of their various bulbs. The Silver Star's hours were
much less than Xtravision or any of the other bulbs.
I believe you are correct.... it seems I also saw somewhere that Sylvania
warns you that the Silverstars aren't as long lived as their other bulbs,
but four years ain't bad for the extra light output.
> My first Silver Star burnout came after just one year, and I hardly
Four years for lights that were almost ALWAYS on is something that I
would not complain about. I hated that damn auto daytime running light
set up on the Silvy, but at least on mine, when you disable it (by
removing the bulb) it turns your heads on, all the time. They have
been great for me, love the fact that I can see VERY well at night in
the desert, so I won't change.
Excerpts from Daniel Stern's Blue Bulb page:
"The cost? Bulb lifetime. The filament changes made to produce enough extra
light that the bulb will still be legal despite the blue-filtration losses
mean the filament's lifespan is shortened considerably."
"The Sylvania SilverStar bulbs have a very short lifetime, because the
filament is overdriven to get a legal amount of light despite the blue glass."
I think my light circuit upgrade, with relays and shorter heavier wires
routed more directly from battery to bulbs, did away with a lot of voltage
loss present in the stock circuit. The overdriven Silver Stars won't live
long under full power, but I would never have known with the stock wiring.
I'd just be impressed that my voltage-starved Silver Stars were shining
noticeably brighter than my voltage-starved stock bulbs did.
Since the upgrade, the Xtravisions have already surpassed the poor Silver
Stars' meager lifetime. And the truck's original 6-year-old 9004 bulbs are
doing fine as inboard High Beams.
Well, I guess since I don't drive a Dodge, I drive a Silvy that was factory
with the dual headlight set up and I use the 9005 & 9006 series bulbs, I
don't have to worry about anything. I guess it just boils down to using
what ever works for you. Shame though, that Dodge had such a poor design on
the head lights.
It's a shame you missed the point. When your Silver Stars last for 4 years,
that doesn't indicate that your Chevy has a nice light circuit design. It
indicates that you're spending watts to heat up wires instead of filaments.
I didn't miss anything. You are quoting that because of the design of the
bulb, it has a shorter life span. Compared to what? It's a freaking light
bulb, how damn long is it suppose to last? If is it lasting me 4 or more
years and a cost of 40 bucks for a set of two, how is this a problem?
Also, if you were to read his site a little closer, he is using that H1 bulb
as a reference, which is a bulb that is not on my Silvy, but even if it
were, a long life bulb (per the site) is rated at 1200 life hours. You
don't think that in a four year period, 1200hr life hours is not exceeded?
Again, how long (in years) should it last?
Another thing that I don't see any reference to on his site, is where you
get the notion that I am "heating up wires" All that it states is that "The
Sylvania SilverStar bulbs have a very short lifetime, because the filament
is overdriven to get a legal amount of light despite the blue glass." I
believe you are making an assumption here, based off the "upgrades" you made
to your vehicle and trying to compare them in retrospect to mine. Sorry,
but the light circuitry on our vehicles are vastly different and just
because something is one way on yours does not mean the same for me.
Compared to Sylvania's own Xtravision bulb, for example. Putting blue tint
on the Silver Star glass has to cost something - either brightness, or
life, or a little of both.
For you, it's not much of a problem. A four year life, rather than 6 or
perhaps 8, is still very reasonable. And you like the whiteness more than
you want a few more years of bulb life. I probably would have remained
happy with mine too in the original higher-resistance circuit.
Four years is enough. Silver Stars aren't going to live 4 years in a good
Your heating up everything that has electrical resistance. If you dim your
dashboard lights, you may notice that the dimmer switch gets warmer. Same
Ask Nosey. Read Stern's page about relays.
It means exactly the same for both of us. Power (watts) is dissipated
across a voltage drop. Your Silver Stars last acceptably long because
resistance in the rest of the circuit is reducing voltage at the bulbs.
"Have you measured the resistance levels on the Silvy's lighting circuit?"
He apparently thinks Chevy and Dodge can each use different versions of
"Do you know what the resistance levels are on each of the four bulbs? I
know I don't off the top of my head as I have never had a reason to measure
It needs to be calculated, but he apparently thinks you can get something
meaningful by measuring the resistance across a cold bulb.
What ever, little do you know about me or my back ground.
No, I don't think that, nor did I imply that. I did ask you though if you
knew the resistance of the Silvy lighting circuit, which you did not answer.
Obviously you don't know. Stock for stock how do you know that the
resistance in your Ram was not equal to, greater or less then that of my
Chevy? You don't. So to imply that the resistance of my lighting circuit
is as restrictive as you seem to be implying, is ludacris. You can't
substanciate it. Wire gauge, wire run lenght, relays, etc all factor into
the resistance level of the circuit, but gee, you should know that right?
Where did I ever state anything about measuring a bulb, warm or cold? I
stated just want you left in place above. So please don't put words where
they are not. My point, which you apparently over looked or missed (you
must be practicing Buddism!) is that you (nor I) know the resistance of the
lighting circuit on the Silvy. Which means, that to back up your statements
concerning bulb life, heating of the wires, et all., are not substantiated.
You are making assumptions not verified statements.
Pointing back to Dan's website. Have you (or anyone) ever ask how he
verified his data? Not saying it is not correct, but was the data complied
from manufactures, from a test bench, from real world applications or from
all of the mentioned?
Here's where you implied it:
"Sorry, but the light circuitry on our vehicles are vastly different and
just because something is one way on yours does not mean the same for me."
My own light circuitry is also vastly different than it used to be. So? I
can still compare the two. And based on your impressive 4-year Silver Star
bulb life, I can pretty well guess that your factory Chevy wiring is
comparable to factory Dodge wiring.
I should know it, I do know it, that's why I've been chattering about wire
gauge, and length, and relays, and amps heating up light switches.
You stated that you never had a reason to measure it.
"I have never had a reason to measure it."
You can't measure the resistance of operating light bulbs. And there's no
need for us to know what it is anyway.
My statements concerning bulb life, heating of the wires, et al aren't
He distrusts manufacturers' hype.
Looking around Sylvania's site, I found this:
Line No. 1 - Standard
Line No. 2 - Cool Blue
Line No. 3 - Long Life
Line No. 4 - ?
Line No. 5 - SilverStar
Line No. 6 - Xtravision
Surprisingly, SilverStar is rated 10 hours better than Xtravision on High
Beam. But SilverStar is by far the lowest on Low Beam. Neither is
particularly long lived though.
So based on a 150 hour expected life at 12.8 volts, and considering mine
burned out in a year, and considering you drive a *lot* at night and yours
lasted 4 years, you really think your bulbs are getting close to their full
12.8 volts? I certainly don't.
But see here, you are comparing the high resistance Dodge lighting circuit
to your own Dodge "low resistance" modified circuit and then trying to make
a direct comparision to my Silvy's lighting circuit. Have you measured the
resistance levels on the Silvy's lighting circuit? Do you know what the
resistance levels are on each of the four bulbs? I know I don't off the top
of my head as I have never had a reason to measure it.
Ok, you had a "bad" experience with the SilverStars. In your set up they
don't seem to last long, no problem. However, there is no way that one can
reasonably say that the other bulbs would infact last the 6 or 8 years you
state. Are they classed as a longer life bulb, sure, but this is subjective
to the vehicles, the amount they are used and other enviormental factors
(like Mike's deer hunting truck <BG>
Again, do you have specific knowledge of the lighting circuit in the Silvy?
True, to a point.
If you dim your
Never have I had such a problem. As an FYI, I do most of my driving in the
dark, to and from work daily (1.5 hrs each way (which sucks)) and have made
three or four cross country trips from AZ to NY and back for which the
lights were always on. Not at one time did I have anything even get
remotely warm from anything other then the heater.
Not saying that it can't happen but that it has never happen in my truck.
Again, do you have specific knowledge of the lighting circuit in the Silvy?
While I don't remember the year of your Chevy, in the late 90's if you got
the standard Cheyenne trim level you got the old H 6054 lights. Somewhat
equivalant to the standard Dodge lights vs. the sport lights? But even with
that said it's inexcusable to have to pay extra to get adequate lighting. I
think the original Intrepid lights were even worse.
It's a new body style 99 Silvy. This is when Chevy started changing from
the C/K series (back) to the Silverado line, there was no Cheyenne package
available. It's the Silverado with the LS or LT packaging at a few
I do agree with you 100% though, it is a shame that we have to pay for
better lighting because the manufactures will not flip the bill and put them
in. If the European makers can, including Benz, you would think that at
least Chrysler would.
Yes, but I changed to Sport headlights + relays + 10-gauge wiring + Silver
Star bulbs all at once so I can't say how much improvement is attributable
I think any year Sport headlight will fit any year of 2nd-generation truck,
with a minor bit of plastic trimming necessary to fit earlier Sport light
brackets on later model trucks. Alternately, it looked to me like the
standard light brackets could be trimmed to accept Sport headlight shells.
Daniel Stern supplied my "RIK-RAM" relay kit, Sport headlights came from
eBay. I went to Radio Shack for spiral wire wrap for a tidy mouse-resistant
harness, and a plastic Project Box that I mounted atop the factory fuse box
to house the new relays. 10-gauge wires were a struggle, I'd use #12 if I
had to do it again.
Here's my headlight circuit: http://tinyurl.com/2mmqeq
And... it works! I think the switch on the dash runs cooler too, without
the heavy amps running through it.
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