Two cars, different problems due to lack of service manuals.
I am not familiar with this type of connection on a (Fiat 1.9D) Diesel
fuel filter, could someone please advise on how to remove the
Also on whether this filter needs to be filled with Derv before
( I only have experience with the spin on canister type)
Link to pic
Also need advice on antifreeze.
Fiat Doblo JTD. Terrible struggle to change it (Glycol )
Undertray to remove. Undid hose on radiator (connection previously used
laying under car on ramps, arm at full stretch upward into engine bay.
unable to get clear when pulling it off soaked in antifreeze :(
All to get 2 1/2 litres out.
To try to flush it from that position with a hose would be like being
under a shower, no access at all from the top.
The header tank holds 1 1/2 litres and system capacity 6 litres.
It made me wonder... What if I sucked the 1 1/2 litres out of the tank
with my sealy suction fluid remover every 6 months or so and replaced
it with fresh?
instead of all that trouble to get 2 1/2 litres out.
Also the second pic
showing oil filter on bottom of Doblo JTD engine.
Are these WATER pipes on the back of the oil filter ( why?)
cant see where they run to but if they are water pipes is this a
possible drain point?
Incidentally, the undertray now has service access holes :)
Many thanks for any replies to this post as I am struggling to do SOME
of the servicing at least to cut costs.
Front pipe - The shiny silver clip pulls out towards you, and then the
connection with the pipes lifts out.
Rear pipe - The white part pushes in, and the connector will lift off
Middle pipe - Should be similar to the rear pipe (can't really tell due to
the photo, but normally similar types off connectors are used)
Once you've change the filter, provided there is no bleeder fitted, just
start the engine and let it idle. That should be enough to draw the fuel
back up through the system. If it cuts out, keep cranking the engine over in
short bursts until it starts. If it doesn't start after quite a few
attempts, then you'll have to bleed the system as per the manual (99% off
the time you get away without having to bleed it)
The hoses that appear to be going behind the oil filter are for the oil
cooler. The oil cooler is sandwiched between the oil filter and filter
mount. It's quite a common oil cooler set-up.
Thanks Moray. Following your advice I looked again at the filter and
can now see clearly how the gold bits that the silver clip fits into
are part of the filter itself. (the little holes in the gold bits had
Re the oil cooler...Thanks again. Never had a car with an oil cooler
and I thought is was some sort of water/oil coolant heat exchanger
interface at the back of the filter, with the pipes carrying water.....
If anyone can advise on the antifreeze I would be grateful.
I guess i`m not up for the antifreeze "shower" holding a hose above me
while laying on my back underneath....
But .. a 1/4 total change can be done just by sucking out the header
tank... is this sufficient if done..say twice a year???
If not, I guess its for the garage to do ..
But would they have a flushing routine for such a difficult access?
Then flush through with a hose in the header tank, in the hole where the
stat has come from etc, until it runs clean, then allow to drain, reconnect
everything, put in 3 litres of antifreeze and top up with water.
Fiats usually have a drain plug on the bottom of the rad, alternative
flushing method is to remove this, allow it to empty, the stick hose into
expansion tank (with drain still out) run hose till expansion tank is
overflowing then leave like this with engine running for 1/2 an hour or so.
After the drain has been running clear for a while, stop engine, remove
hose, replace plug, then add 3 litres antifreeze and top up with water.
Here is a new link of the engine bays of the Doblo JTD & 1.9D Punto (
10 Seconds refresh rate)
I would be grateful if someone could identify the stat housing.
(these things were so obvious on the old cars I worked on for the last
35 years or so )
Also pics 2 & 9 are of the JTD fuel filter. Does it just spin on ? what
is the black housing above the filter, is it a fuel heater ? and will
it stay put when I put a strap wrench on the filter ?.
Shot 2 is taken from below the filter .. how does this unplug ? and
if it is a device to measure water how does it work?
It looks like a multiwire plug. not used to such compexity :)
The last car I fully serviced for years was a Clubman D with the good
old Perkins ..welll noisy and smoky, but simple.
Thanks for all your help in bringing me up to speed in modern (ish:)
Thank you Simon (and Moray and Chris)
Thats really good info.
Could you please advise me on just one more point concerning changing
I am really interested in just sticking a hose in the header tank ,
running the engine and letting it drain and flush as you suggested as
Can`t find a radiator drain plug however.
(I am a bit uneasy about getting the stat out as its well hidden.)
Moray, wrote that this shot
is of the oil cooler.But are the pipes full of cooling system fluid
with the black thing on the back of the filter being the oil cooler? Or
are those pipes full of engine oil running to a finned radiator style
oil cooler somewhere?.
If they are cooling system hoses I wondered if I could partially
disconnect one and stick a running hose in the header tank to flush it
These hoses are very easy access now that I have cut an "inspection
hatch" in the undertray to get at the oil filter more easily.
If so, I assume starting the engine from cold and running until the
stat starts to open? Will this be OK with cold tapwater being run into
the header tank as it starts to warm up?
You have all been really great helping me with these points.
I wondered which forum you were answering from if you dont mind me
asking, as I had some concerns about cross posting.
The oil filter is the screwon can, the only oil pipes will feed that can
(up the middle and out the side.
The two pipes you can see will take coolant into and out of the flat boxy
thing which is the oil cooler. The idea is not to cool the engine oil to
ambiant as that makes it far far too thick - about the same temperature as
hot coolant is where it wants to be so these pipes will be on the hot loop
of the engine coolant circuit.
If access is easy then draining the hot side by unding one of these pipes
and the cold side by doing the radiator is also an option. Don't introduce
cold water into a hot engine though as that can thermally shock the engine
and warp the head which obviously is bad news
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