I recently bought this car and knew about the problem but figured no
big deal about it until recently. The A/C works but only on settings 0,
1, and 2. Once turned to 3 and 4 the A/C shuts off. I believe it does
the same with the heater. The cooling problem would be that the temp
guage is showing the car to be overheating when it is at a stand still.
I had the coolant flushed and replaced by the mechanic, as well as the
thermostat and the housing for the thermostat. It cools fine when
driving but when idle i must put the car in neutral and rev the engine
as the temp goes back to normal slowly but surely. If anyone can help
with either of the 2 problems I'd appreciate it.
If the motor is overheating, the PCM will shut down the AC..... if the motor
isn't overheating but the PCMs engine temperature reference falsely
indicates an overheat condition, the PCM will shut the AC down.... Stay away
from statements like "I believe..." we can only work in "does" and
A word for all.... if you buy a broken car... it is broken. If the fix is
cheap, the selling party will have it fixed in order to make the car more
attractive to prospective buyers. If the fix isn't cheap, the seller will
depend on the buyers niavete to make the sale... "Oh, yeah... I been meaning
to get that fixed but my mechanic is too busy.... I'll knock 50 bucks off
The person i bought the car from did mention a type of switch or fuse
under the glove compartment that had to do with the a/c problem, i dont
remember exactly what he said, but it was along the lines of "fan
blower switch". If that has to do with anything I'd like to know.
Jim Warman wrote:
It's a fan blower resistor pack, located in the blower housing
below the glove box, right where your passenger could extend
his feet and kick it. About $15, held in place with two small
bolts and has two electrical connectors (with lock tabs)
connected to it. There's a resistor for each fan speed, and
two of yours have rusted/burnt out.
The mechanic I took it to noticed the fans were not working when i took
it in and fixed that problem. When i took it in the fans didnt turn on
at all unless the a/c was turned on. Well he fixed the fan problem
along with reseating the radiator to make sure it was on right. I read
in the Haynes book that the car has a fail-safe of turning itself off
as the heat goes up, if this is true i have not seen any form of
warning light when the temp gets into the red every now and then. I
simply rev the engine in neutral at stop lights and it goes back to
normal withing 10 - 15 seconds. If the coolant shoots into the resevoir
and i can see it in short streams, does that mean the water pump is
Somewhere on the Internet is a picture of a Ford water pump
whose impeller is corroded away to the point where it looks like
a thin piece of sheet metal with six tiny bumps. Yours probably
isn't that bad (yet), but if you haven't had it replaced within the
last 60K miles, there's a good chance your suffers the same
problem, or the impeller could be a little loose on the shaft.
Constant near overheating runs the risk of damaging the head
gasket, a much more expensive repair. Change the water pump
(and the timing belt while you're at it), and ask to see the old
pump before it gets sent back for the core charge.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.