'00 Focus A/C & Cooling Problem

I recently bought this car and knew about the problem but figured no big deal about it until recently. The A/C works but only on settings 0, 1, and 2. Once turned to 3 and 4 the A/C shuts off. I believe it does
the same with the heater. The cooling problem would be that the temp guage is showing the car to be overheating when it is at a stand still. I had the coolant flushed and replaced by the mechanic, as well as the thermostat and the housing for the thermostat. It cools fine when driving but when idle i must put the car in neutral and rev the engine as the temp goes back to normal slowly but surely. If anyone can help with either of the 2 problems I'd appreciate it.
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If the motor is overheating, the PCM will shut down the AC..... if the motor isn't overheating but the PCMs engine temperature reference falsely indicates an overheat condition, the PCM will shut the AC down.... Stay away from statements like "I believe..." we can only work in "does" and "doesn't"...
A word for all.... if you buy a broken car... it is broken. If the fix is cheap, the selling party will have it fixed in order to make the car more attractive to prospective buyers. If the fix isn't cheap, the seller will depend on the buyers niavete to make the sale... "Oh, yeah... I been meaning to get that fixed but my mechanic is too busy.... I'll knock 50 bucks off for that....".

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The person i bought the car from did mention a type of switch or fuse under the glove compartment that had to do with the a/c problem, i dont remember exactly what he said, but it was along the lines of "fan blower switch". If that has to do with anything I'd like to know.
Jim Warman wrote:

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It's a fan blower resistor pack, located in the blower housing below the glove box, right where your passenger could extend his feet and kick it. About $15, held in place with two small bolts and has two electrical connectors (with lock tabs) connected to it. There's a resistor for each fan speed, and two of yours have rusted/burnt out.
Bob

0,
still.
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hiya,
Sort the engine overheat problem first, start with the cooling fan and then consider the water pump.
m
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The mechanic I took it to noticed the fans were not working when i took it in and fixed that problem. When i took it in the fans didnt turn on at all unless the a/c was turned on. Well he fixed the fan problem along with reseating the radiator to make sure it was on right. I read in the Haynes book that the car has a fail-safe of turning itself off as the heat goes up, if this is true i have not seen any form of warning light when the temp gets into the red every now and then. I simply rev the engine in neutral at stop lights and it goes back to normal withing 10 - 15 seconds. If the coolant shoots into the resevoir and i can see it in short streams, does that mean the water pump is working?
pottsy wrote:

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Somewhere on the Internet is a picture of a Ford water pump whose impeller is corroded away to the point where it looks like a thin piece of sheet metal with six tiny bumps. Yours probably isn't that bad (yet), but if you haven't had it replaced within the last 60K miles, there's a good chance your suffers the same problem, or the impeller could be a little loose on the shaft.
Constant near overheating runs the risk of damaging the head gasket, a much more expensive repair. Change the water pump (and the timing belt while you're at it), and ask to see the old pump before it gets sent back for the core charge.
Bob

then
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