While on the process of changing the Timing Belt, as per Haynes manual
suggest (Chapter 2 Part A Engine Section 5.28).
Rotating the crankshaft damper bolt with a socket and breaker bar in
clockwise direction is not rotating the camshaft sprocket.
Currently the car is in neutral and hand brakes applied, drive belt
removed still timing belt and crankshaft pully still on.
Appreciate any help.
just did that job today, is the tensioner on?
should turn crank and cam at 1/2 of crank.
are you putting a new water pump on it?
i would suggest it. see my post from earlier this evening.
why hassle having to do a pump soon.
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety
camshaft sprocket is not rotation. I dont know its important to align
the camshaft sproket and crankshaft pulley at this time while removing
the crankshaft pulley to change the timing belt. After removing the
timing belt make sence to me. appreicate someone shed light here.
to change the crankshaft sprocket - oilpump seal and oil pan gasket
i didnt have to remove the pully from the crank to get the new belt on, i
did just to clean it up and check for oil seal leak.
is the cam belt tensioner installed with the new water pump?
if so cam should turn.
is the pan gasket leaking?
mine had a little seepage but i call that external block
I see the steering pump hose joining with the pump got a wetness from
oilseepage or leak and a film of oil on the underside of oilpan, also
a few droplet of green af liquid on the garage floor since I stoped to
change the belt. Though I never suspect any excess of drop in either
oil or af liquid level
Why dont you LOOK at it and figure out why it doesnt move?
I think either you or Haynes have got a step out of sequence.
BEFORE you put the belt on and set the tensioner, you have to align the crank
and cam COGGED pulleys to their respective marks
THEN you rotate them AFTER the belt is tight, WITH tensioner, 2 turns to
insure the timing marks still are aligned
Dont call it DRIVE belt, call it timing belt.
belt. I found the timing belt is missing 8 tooth. I Will align the
crankshaft sproket, and camshaft sprokets with TDC before installing
the new timing belt.
Whats the easiest way to find the TDC Compression on the first spark
plug? Shoudl I rent something like the Compression gauge with the
spark plug adapter?
Appreciate any help.
Well... sorry for Iam being so doubtful, this is the place I get lost
again and again in timing belt. So please tell me, line up the timing
marks to proper pointers and need not to worry about TDC. Sound too
good to be true. What will go worse if I get the timing wrong? Engine
wont start or will I damage any parts on the engine?
Appreciate any help.
On 5 Sep 2003 07:45:24 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (sams) wrote:
Start there, work your way through the site. When you finally get the concept
that the camshaft will only turn at half the rate of the crankshaft (due to
the size of the camshaft sprocket in relation to the crankshaft sprocket),
you'll be on your way to understanding that yes, it is that simple.
What do you think the marks are there for? It's for timing the crank to cam. If
you are worried about damaging your engine, do not understand what the manual
tells you, maybe you should not be doing this?
Great! I aligned those marks and everything pretty straight forward
afterwards. Since the crankshaft pully cann't be installed other way,
its all fall into the right place. And every thing worked perfectly. I
also changed the front oil seal before putting the crankshaft sproket
and changed to new plugs and coil(plug) wires. Now the car is running
very nicely than it was before. No oil or water/coolant leak in the
last 2 days.
Thanks to everyone in this newsgroup who patiently answered my
questions, without your help I may not have done this timing, driving
belt, front oil seal change correctly the first time itself.
Great newsgroup! and great people out there.
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