Warning, I'm not famiar with the 4.6, per se.
Go to a parts store and get a "NOID"... shows when injector fires.
WHY do you suspect them on all the time?
I'm an IT customer support engineer, vocationally, though I dont do that
One of the biggest frustrations is when a client asks.. "How do I install a
Then we have to go thru the ballet of determining the symptoms or failure
that he's trying to correct.
Does the engine start when you floor the accelerator?
If the problem is apparent flooding, the Engine Coolant Temp sensor could be
bad or the Fuel Pressure regulator could be bad.
Never heard of a NOID before. Searched Google. Price okay by me.
Lots of smoke. VERY HEAVY fuel smell at tail pipes.
Yes. Engine runs fairly smooth at idle and hi-rpm, cold or hot.
ECT has resistance (not open). Can induce subtle operational changes by
pulling off fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. Not a valid test but
shows its doing something.
Background: Problem showed up at time of or after fix of spark plug
misfire (with diagnostic code). Two plug wires were shorting. Did not
replace plug wiring. Taped up for temporary fix (wires are 14 months
old). Cleared code, no code reported since. OBD-II scanner shows timing
at 20 deg. BTDC (should be 10). I suspected a timing chain jump
(previous post) but a couple of respondents suggested NOT.
I'm kinda lost. All I know is if I start it one more time I'll have the
EPA citing me.
Okay... I wonder if it starts BETTER when you floor it, or is very difficult
to start if you DONT touch the pedal.
I doubt the injectors are on ALL the time - and a timing problem would not
result in an obvious rich condition.
I would GUESS that it may be the pressure reg. You might have the Fuel
The ECT remain a possibility, though.
Farley @nonymous opined in
All that should be done, but did you get the engine temperature when you
had it scanned? I've not seen it as much of an issue with Ford's, but if
this were a Chevy the first thing I'd check was the water temp sensor.
I'm not sure how your's works, but on a Chevy if the circuit gets
corroded at the connector, it will read a very high resistance, making
the vehicle think it's 40 below outside and will turn up the juices to
compensate. Neat thing is the computer won't set a code, it's doing what
it's supposed to do. Next time you hook it up, make sure the computer is
seeing a temp in the ballpark. I'm not sure about the T-bird, but the
gauge usually uses a separate sender than the computer.
I'm leaning toward fuel pressure, though.
Thanks for the replies. You both are pointing at the same things. Gives
me something to look at tomorrow. Your suggestions had me do some more
investigative poking around on the 'net. Learning a lot about all this
EEC stuff. Makes me kinda miss my 283 on my five-seven chevvy. It was so
simple even I could understand it.
I'll unlurk and suggest looking for a loose or cracked vacuum line - I don't
remember on the '94 for sure but I think there is a MAP/BARO sensor that
measures air pressure and manifold vacuum - if the hose is off or leaking
black smoke goes everywhere - if the car will run at all... Just look
closely where the damage was repaired.
Mine was on the fender - had a mid-size vacuum line - but the 'Bird was a
few years older with a 5.0L, I think your's has EEC-IV like my 'Bird did...
Paul in Dayton
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.