Get your DVM out, turn key to "RUN", check voltage at fuse. Should be
Check voltage at YEL (yellow, cavity E) wire in back of switch. Should be
There are two BLK (black) wires, check resistance between each and ground.
One (cavity B) should be 0 and the other (cavity D) should be open. With
your meter still on the one that is open (cavity D), push button to "OPEN"
rear quarter windows, DVM should now read 0. Switch your DVM to VDC and push
button to "CLOSE" rear quarter windows, voltage should read 12-14VDC.
One lead of DVM on ground and the other on the BRN (brown, cavity C) wire,
push button to "OPEN" rear quarter windows, DVM should now read 12-14VDC.
Push button to "CLOSE" rear quarter windows, resistance should be 0 between
BRN and ground.
Start there, see what you find out.
PS - Here's the wire descriptions:
GRY (cavity A) - (+) from interior lights dimmer
BLK (cavity B) - ground
YLW (cavity E) - BAT+ in run from fuse block
BRN (cavity C) - window open (+), window close ground
BLK (cavity D) - window close (+), window open ground
Thank-you very much for your help. The voltage checks alright at the
Fuse box and the fuse is good, however, the YEL (yellow, cavity E) wire
in back to the switch gives me only 1 or less VDC.
I use the power from the light switch on the same console for a test
and the window switch worked perfectly. (pink wire to the light bulb)
What do you recommend I do next?
Steve Mackie wrote:
First, I always like to do the "stupid" test:
Did you check the voltage on both sides of the fuse with the fuse installed?
Did you have the key in the "RUN" position when you checked the voltage at
Did you have a good ground when checking the voltage at the switch?
After that, then I am comfortable going deeper. Find connector C200, I/P
wiring harness behind right side of the I/P next to an array of solenoids,
close to the passenger side kick panel. It has 56 cavities so it's quite
big. Cavity D3 is the yellow wire going to the switch, check voltage on both
sides. Unplug the connector to check the voltage coming from the fuse.
The next connector in line is C308, located in the right B-Pillar behind the
lower trim. Check the voltage at cavilty K. Both sides. Unplug the
connector, check the voltage coming from the fuse. If the voltage is
incorrect there, then the job gets rellay involved.
In between C200 and C308 there is a splice. One side going to C308 and the
other going to the ALC (auto level control) sensor, compressor and relay.
The sensor is located outside the vehicle above the rear axle, can't miss
it, big arm sticking out of it attached to the rear axle. Since this sensor
is outside, I would almost suspect a short in the sensor. Unplug the sensor
and check the voltage on the yellow wire.
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