Chevy Blazer Stuck Hood Latch

The hood latch on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer occasionally gets stuck (usually when it's cold out). I tried lubing the latch and spring to no avail. I'd
like to increase the tension on the cable to get a bigger "release"....but it does not appear to be adjustable. I tried moving the little metal stopper at the end of the cable but it doesn't budge. What's the trick?
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"Spiderman" wrote:
The hood latch on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer occasionally gets stuck (usually when it's cold out). I tried lubing the latch and spring to no avail. I'd like to increase the tension on the cable to get a bigger "release"....but it does not appear to be adjustable. I tried moving the little metal stopper at the end of the cable but it doesn't budge. What's the trick?
____________________________________________________
The metal stopper is usually permanently swaged on to the release cable, and is not removable.
The end of the cable housing is probably clamped to a bracket near the latch arm. If so, loosen the clamp and slide the housing away from the latch arm until the metal stopper is in the desired position. Then retighten the clamp.
Also, check for misalignment of the latch probe as it enters its nest when closing the hood. That could cause a sticking latch.
Good luck.
Wendy & John. ____________________________________________________
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(usually
stopper
Hi, Spiderman. My '87 S10 Blazer cable broke. *Buy*(This 1st suggestion may not be necessary--depends on condition of present cable. See second alternative below.) from the discount parts house, from the "HELP" display section a replacement cable kit. Remove the old one. Thread the new one thru the housing(it goes from inside the car thru housing to underhood--the release handle is fixed to the cable with NO underhood end on cable.). Kit comes with a 'brass threaded sleeve' that slides over the underhood end where it is screw-tightened onto cable. Ensure you adjust the sleeve where it will pull the latch "further". *Second, cheaper, quicker:* Look at that kit to get an idea what the " threaded sleeve" looks like. Then, see if you can buy just that piece, cut off the 'ball' from the end of original cable and attach sleeve further up the cable than original. Same final outcome as above. May have to get it from Chevy dealer, but I'd bet HELP sells it by itself. Grease that latch and work it by hand 'til the wife can open it with her left hand! HTH & good luck, s
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A common problem is the cable moves when you pull the handle but the hood doesn't pop up. I couldn't determine by the post if that was your problem or the cable was actually stuck. But for anyone who has a cable that pulls ok and the hood still won't pop up this will help...... The actual problem is with the hood hinges. Use a penetrating lubricant on all the hinge pivot pins and work the hood up and down several times while you spray the pins until it works easily. Once you have it freed up and working correctly a few drops of oil on the hinge pivots occasionally will keep it working nicely. The dumb little spring that pops the hood up when you pull on the cable doesn't have enough force to overcome stiff hinges, especially on a long, heavy hood.
-- Mike.................................................... "Opportunities are spawned from crisis"
The hood latch on my 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer occasionally gets stuck (usually when it's cold out). I tried lubing the latch and spring to no avail. I'd like to increase the tension on the cable to get a bigger "release"....but it does not appear to be adjustable. I tried moving the little metal stopper at the end of the cable but it doesn't budge. What's the trick?
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My problem was as you described (you pull the handle but the hood doesn't pop up). I lubed up the spring and latch assembly and that seems to have helped...the hood always releases now although sometimes it pops up very weakly (but at least its not "stuck"). It didn't even occur to me to lube hood hinges but it certainly makes sense that gummed up hinges would add to the apparent weight on the spring. Thanks.
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your hood is out of alignment. have a dealer re adjust it. I had the same problem.
it works great now...
On Sun, 5 Dec 2004 04:36:54 -0500, "Spiderman"

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before spending good money at the $tealer's, spray the latch and associated mechanism, including the hood end of the cable, with a good lubricant
I use 'PB Blaster' penetrating oil to free things up, followed by a mix of ATF and engine oil
if the vehicle has not been 'dinged' in an accident, just loosen the bolts on either side of the hood and adjust for equal amounts of space between hood and fenders, and make sure the fore-aft alignment is right by sighting the front corners to the fenders
9 out of 10 times, this will fix it

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I had the same problem with my 96 Chevy Tahoe and sprayed the hinges and cable with WD40. It works great now.

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