Excellent, something for me to do tonight.
I have gone through many a brakes over the last few years. Mostly because I
only use cheap pads/rotors and I am the HARDEST non-two foot driver on
brakes. I brake hard and quick, the earlier you brake into a corner, the
slower your lap time...err....the longer your trip will be.
Anyway, onto the topic. Rotors for me have only ever lasted 6 months tops
before they warped to rat-shit. Pissed me off, but "what are ya gonna do"
I'd say. Until I learned of "brake burnishing" a while back. Probably gained
this knowledge from actually reading the instructions one day. Search Google
for "brake burnishing" and you'll find out ways to do it. Here's what I did:
Bring vehicle to 30kph, brake hard to a complete stop. Let brakes cool.
Bring vehicle to 40kph, brake hard to a complete stop. Let brakes cool.
Repeat in increments of 10kph or whatever you feel like up to 100kph,
remembering to let the brakes cool between stops. Also, don't "ride" the
brakes or brake slowly during this burnishing period. I actually did this
process twice because I had nothing better to do at the time.
I did this with my current set of brakes, and they are THE cheapest rotors
and pads money can buy. How long have they been on the car you ask? Like I
said, I usually get 6 months out of a pad/rotor set, now I'm up to 18 months
with the smallest amount of wear on the rotor, 1/2 thickness of pad left and
BTW - Shep, I type at 40-50wpm, so I don't mind. ;)
Oh, and there is lubricant on your autoparts shelf labeled for brake slides.
I'm not sure of what I use, I think it's silicone lubricant or something. I
only know it says "Brake.....something something" on the tube. Take a look,
you'll find it.
Either have the rotors cut if they are within spec or buy new rotors,
the pads should be fine as long as they don't have too many miles on
What kind of lube are you asking for? Rule number one is no oil or
grease around brake parts. The only chemicals that should be anywhere
near brake surfaces are brake parts cleaner and anti-squeal compound
or spray and that only on the back of the pads.
68' Camaro RS
88' Firebird Formula
00' Mustang GT Vert
One possibility is that you may have either over-torqued or unevenly torqued
your lug nuts. Used to happen to me on my older Chevy pickups on the front
rotors. If I torqued them to book specs of 100 ft-lbs then the rotors would
warp, but if I tightened them down to 90 ft-lbs then no problems.
Cheers - Jonathan
We started seeing entirely too many brand new rotors, from A'Zone &
Advance, etc., that had to be removed and turned. Switched source to older,
established parts houses & guess what. Same darned thing! Now, we just
automatically turn the brand new ones to save on duplicate labor. Often,
some need very little cutting; but most are still out enough that they'd
pulsate w/out. s
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