GM Service Manual for 1987 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

Hi!
I have an old car that is going through death spasms. I was hoping someone in these groups might have a copy of the Service Manual for the 1987
Cadillac Sedan DeVille FWD in electronic format that they could post.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The official document number (I think) from GM is H-2414
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Hi!
I have an old car that is going through death spasms. I was hoping someone in these groups might have a copy of the Service Manual for the 1987 Cadillac Sedan DeVille FWD in electronic format that they could post.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The official document number (I think) from GM is H-2414
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I don't have that H document, but I do have an '87 DeVille. I may be able to help in some way. Post your problem.
Dave S(Texas)
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote in 3237.bay.webtv.net:

Thanks Dave! I appreciate the offer. My need for the book is actually the proceedures for troubleshooting, and the steps involved in repair and replacement.
However, I currently have couple of issues you may be able to help me with.
My car has trouble re-starting if I've been driving for a while. What happens is the car gets hot. If I turn it off at the store it acts like it starts to turn over, then just acts like its dead. A second later it will catch (turnover) and start. But I'm really worried I'll turn it off and it won't start back up.
The error codes on the environmental display are E48 and E52.
I just recently got the car back... I had a major leak. The mechanics thought it was the freeze plugs, but it turned out to be a hole had corroded through the block behind the tranny. Something about dissimilar metals. Anyway, they poured concrete into the block, and patched the outside of the hole with JB-Weld. The shop owner said he'd seen this particular problem on two other cadillacs he'd worked on. And this was his solution. He told me it would probably be good for a couple of years. I had to laugh. That was one of the best MacGuyvers I've ever heard of. And the car was running better until about a couple of weeks after when the radiator sprang a leak. I put some aluma seal in it and its been doing ok.
I plan on changing out the plugs, cap and rotor, and probably the ingition coil (but those things are pricey even on these old cars).
Anyway, got any ideas about the rough starting? Do you know where the O2 sensors are?
Jed (down in the swamplands)
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E48=EGR system fault/E52=ECM memory reset
The EGR code can mean a vacuum leak/obstruction in the egr vacuum supply line, or a gummed up/restricted egr valve.
The memory reset code means that the power to the ECM has been disconnected at some time and all the RAM of the computer system has been deleted....a bad thing. When the RAM is lost the computer reverts to its factory default settings for all engine sensors/systems. RAM is where 'driving history' is kept and what the computer uses to compensate for what are less than perfect/brand new sensors/systems/engine conditions. Most probably the battery was disconnected/changed and is why the RAM was lost. Eventually the driving history will be rewritten and the computer will adapt everything to make the engine perform as best it can. That will just take driving time. Until then, the engine will probably act 'like it has some problems'.
Check the vacuum lines to the egr for problems. Removing the egr is a tool-challenge. The bolt on the drivers side takes a bent wrench("as I recall). Once you get the valve off, you may get it fixed by cleaning, but it would be a better thing to replace it with a GM/AC Delco valve.....no other brand/kind. Write down the valve number if you need to replace it or bring it in to a parts house that carries GM/AC Delco parts. The thing costs about $35 here in Texas at a AC Delco supply house. It's important to replace the valve 'kind for kind'. No generic valve will do.
As to the water leaks. This engine is a Aluminum block with iron heads. The cooling system requires a sealant _everytime_ the cooling system is flushed/drained. Most folks don't know this and is why so many engine cooling system/engine problems come up. The GM sealant (part #3634621) is the recommended sealant. That sealant is a bag of large tablets that are put in the radiator and/or lower radiator hose whenever the cooling system has maintenance performed.....like changing the anti-freeze. The tabs cost less than $5 and are also available at a GM/AC Delco parts place. Not using the tabs has cost many engine replacements and some very bad things said about the engine. A lousy $5 spent would have probably saved all those engines, but DIYers don't know about this requirement and most mechanics don't either, or at least didn't back in 'the day'. Concrete and JBWeld eh? LOL....whatever works!
If you intend to keep the vehicle, I strongly suggest you buy the Service Manual for it. Helm Inc has a website and the last time I checked, the SM was still available. It will pay for itself very quickly, believe that! Sometimes eBay will have one for sale. The SM covers every system of the car and everything else from the tread on the bottom of the tire to the skin on the roof. It may be available on CD, but the book is faster/easier to deal with...IMO.
Hope this helps!
Dave S(Texas)
email to: nospamtolipmeat at webtv dot net if you need more information/help/advice
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote in
Dude!
Thanks a million! That's just the kind of info I've been needing.
I knew I needed the service manual...
I appreciate it bubba. You hang out in here alot?
You sound like a professional wrench turner. A valuable skill to have imho.
Best of all to you.
Will keep in touch.
Jed
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