92 Accord injector woes. DIY fix?

Car suddenly running lumpy! After an afternoon's troubleshooting, I've determined that I've got a stuck injector. Applying 4v to the other injector units produces an audible 'click' but does nothing for the dead
one. Resistance is the normal at ~2 ohms, so it's not an open coil. I'm assuming (?) that a bit of dirt has worked its way into the mechanism, and that the piston / valve mechanism is jammed. Are the injector units remotely user serviceable?
If buying an injector, or set, from a junkyard, is there anything specific to look for?
Thanks
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Greg wrote:

Also, will I need to install new o-rings on all the injectors when I pull the rail?
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About the only thing you can do is carefully push the pintle in to see if that will un-stick it. Which you ought to do before condemning the injector! Injectors sometimes come from the factory in a stuck condition, and the tech needs to unstick it as I describe.
Plus you can pull the basket filter and backflush the filter with throttle body cleaner.

Replace as a set. All the "new" ones should come from the same car.
Also make 100% certain you pull the injectors from the exact same year and model as yours. Injectors from various models may look identical outside, but may be mechanically and electrically different inside.
I believe the same year Prelude has the same injectors as your Accord.
Keihin injectors of this vintage have a small rectangular pad on one side of the black top. This pad has four circles with characters in them, some of them Japanese. I can't remember if the characters are different from one injector type to another , but if they are, it will give you a clue as to their nature. Bring a toothbrush to help make the characters more readable.
And yes, you need new O-rings. Replacing the rubber bumpers top and bottom is a good idea as well.
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Tegger wrote:

After pulling the injector, I fiddled with it a bit now it's clicking nicely when juiced. The old rail/injector o-rings were surprisingly dry and brittle. I'm off to pick up new ones and hope to be driving this afternoon.
Thanks again.
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Then it was probably just a bit sticky from sitting a while.
A bit of driving will erase whatever deposits there are inside the pintle area and it'll surely be just fine after that.

Dry and brittle is BAD news. That's one reason people get fuel leaks. I hope you use OEM O-rings. They fit best and last longest.
You can use a thin skim of motor oil to help ease the new rings into the fuel rail.
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