Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs

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There are no springs on the inlet valve.
If you study the bottom of the rad cap, you'll discover either: 1) a round, thin rubber flap smaller than a dime, or 2) a wiggly post with a plastic disc on the end of it.
These are the inlet valves. It takes /next to/ zero negative pressure for the rubber flap type to allow coolant back into the rad, and /definitely/ zero for the wiggly post type, which is always open until pressure shuts it.
This assumes, of course, that both types are CLEAN. Goop and crud will plug up the inlet and prevent free flow of coolant back to the rad.
This futher assumes you're using the correct OEM ND caps. If you've got aftermarket crap, all bets are off as to how they work.
--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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On my 91 Civic, after years of observation, I'd say it's at more like the mid mark on the reservoir when cool, then right at max when warm. I am just following the manual: If reservoir level is at low or a bit above, then warm up the engine, and add coolant to the max mark.
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E Meyer wrote:

I know. On the one hand it may be nothing. On the other it could be engine-threatening. The dealer told us in essesnce, that we can't afford a new gasket - didn't even quote a price. And we wonder why cars aren't maintained like they used to be...
The reservoir was empty, or virtually so, both times.
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mjc13<REMOVETHIS> wrote:

then you either have a leak [which should be obvious somewhere - you need to inspect properly] or you have a blown gasket. pressure tests don't necessarily work for diagnosing gaskets unless the vehicle is at full operating temperature. and even then... observing bubbles in the coolant is the only sure-fire way of knowing.
bottom line, it's pointless spending money on the belt until you have a correct diagnosis.
also, for repair economics, given the money that some repair shops charge for head gasket work, it may be more economic to replace the whole engine. you can buy a jdm import for a few hundred bucks and replacement time is way lower than the time necessary to strip, clean, prep and reassemble a motor for a gasket. and there's the problem of repair shops using abrasives in preparation witch will in due course, cause the car to burn oil. and there's the problem of many places insisting on skimming your head, even if it doesn't need it.
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then you need to go to a different service supplier.(but still use OEM Honda parts) It seems obvious this dealer just doesn't want to work on your car.

It's a FACT you're losing coolant fast;you need to find out WHERE. A dye test seems in order.
THEN worry about head gaskets,IF necessary.
--
Jim Yanik
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On 2/20/08 2:30 PM, in article j50vj.11208$wG2.3708@trndny09,

What did the dealer say he thought the problem was?
If the reservoir is empty, but the radiator is full (I'm still not clear if that's what you are saying), have you checked that the reservoir itself, or the hose to it is not damaged and is actually letting the coolant leak out?
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E Meyer wrote:

It turned out to be a leaking water pump. I believe the Grand Prize goes to Tegger (or maybe Ray) for guessing that. I'm relieved. The pump also had one frozen bolt, so I'm wondering if the pump really *was* replaced 5.5 years ago and 50k miles ago, like th printout from the West coast dealer said. It shouldn't have been in such bad shape - the replacement interval is 6 years and soemthing like 80k miles...
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Only if they can confirm a leak into the cooling system from the combustion chambers. And this is not difficult.
A head gasket is not something you just go and replace on a whim.

No. They need to remove the crank pulley and lots of other parts when replacing the timing belt.

That's a good idea, but does add to the labor cosrt.

I'm not working from home for the time being (BIG adjustment after working from home for 5 years) and putting in lots of hours at the office. My replies will therefore not be as timely as they used to be.
--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
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Tegger wrote:

I appreciate the replies. I'll have them do the pressure test if there is no sign of a leak. If it's the kind of leak a dye test would show, it should be visible by now anyway, I hope.
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On Feb 18, 4:20pm, "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>"

low odds but this happened to me
i used some type of radiator additive that was supposed to kep things cooler instead it made my honda go through radiator fluid and make me think that i had a blown head gasket. I would try to flush the system first and start fresh. Next feel the upper rediator hose with your hand after warm up. Do you feel fluid and is the hose good. Low odds but upper radiator hoses can collapse internally and are soo tough to diagnose. Possible that the thermostat is sticking if no fluid passing you have a problem. Next burp the system get excess air out by adding water and squeeze the upper hose till bubles come out of the radiator top fill hole repeat over and over till no more bubbles.
if still no progress either radiator shot, head gasket, water pump
start low cost and confirm all low cost items are good
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Ray wrote:

car off to have the timing belt and water pump replaced, to take advantage of a 2 week service sale. They will be replacing the coolant, but I have to decide if I'm having them do the head gasket then, obviously. BTW, the engine has always run perectly cool, even in very hot weather, so I'm inclined to think the flow is ok...
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