Replacing front brake pads and rotors , 2006 Elantra 80,000 miles

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Gonna give it a go this weekend...Watched a Youtube video and read a few sites that say it is pretty easy for a DIYer...Any pitfalls I should look out for ?? Any tips or advice are welcome...Thanks..
As a side note I had them done at the shop a year or so ago (about 10,000miles) and they need it again already...Is this normal??? The wife who is the primary driver does tend to zoom up to stop signs and pile on the brakes...LOL...
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benick wrote:

I replaced the brake pads on all 4 wheels on my 06 Spectra last fall. It was easy. You won't have any problems. Why are you replacing the rotors?
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Had them turned last time...Gonna start fresh...
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wrote:

10,000 is pretty short, but it depends on three things. Quality of the pads, condition of the rotor and caliper, driving habits.
When I lived in the city I went through brakes fast with stops signs and traffic lights on every corner. Now, my 24 mile commute to work can have as few as two stops.
Check to see that the calipers are releasing and not causing the pads to drag and that the rotors are not abrasive from something.
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Ill do that..What size C clamp do I need to get to compress the cylinder ?? Also read about a 8 mm jacking bolt to assist getting the rotors off..Anything else "special" I will need ???
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You REALLY do not need to replace or turn the rotors and can instead get coarse sand paper and sand out in a "spoke" pattern from the middle (or swirls that are nearly the same) on both sides of the rotor IF: a) They are not warped b) They are at least minimum thickness c) not too bad a lip on the edge
As far as 10k miles on a set of pads, either they put in very soft pads or you have some serious dragging going on.
The "C" clamp I have is an 8" one (they measure the inside of the jaws)/
Have done brakes for years on Hondas, VW Beetles, Hyundais... never had a problem. KWW On 3/14/2012 11:05 PM, benick wrote:

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Yea I'm thinking the shop used crap parts or didn't turn the rotors like they said they did...Had "another" issue with them on my truck so not going back there again....The front wheels seemed to spin freely when I put the snow tires on last fall and never felt any dragging while taking off after stop..The car has 80,000 miles on it and for 30 bucks a piece I think I'm just gonna swap out the rotors...The biggest C clamp I have is 4 inch so I'll pick up an 8 inch one...Thanks...
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benick wrote:

I recommend that you open the bleeders when pushing the piston back into the caliper. That way the crud won't be forced back up the brake lines. Make sure to do a fluid flush after you have the new pads on. Its nice to have someone help on that but you can do it by yourself. I have, lots of times. Make sure to turn a full one quart can upside down in the master cylinder before starting the flush.
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On 3/15/2012 6:07 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

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KWW wrote:

Wheel cylinders typically have a lot of rust and crud in them. You do NOT want that forced back up into the system and for sure not into the ABS system.

Fluid does not go anywhere. Air pressure keeps the fluid in the can until the fluid in the reservoir falls to the lid area of the can. You can calculate it.
You could open the bleeder if you have a can in the reservoir and let it drain into a pan. I often do it that way. Just make sure the reservoir does not run dry or you will be towing the car to a shop that has ABS energizing / cycling equipment.
Or, you can use a stick on the brake pedal. Apply stick, open bleeder, bleed, close bleeder, remove stick, repeat process about 4 times for each wheel. Its a pain but does work. Can upside down in reservoir!
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I was told recently by a mechanic , that there are three available pad types for the Hyundai ; he said the most common is the 'middle ground' brake pads but the superior kind last longer due to the material used and are typically used on heavier cars . Im going to try them next time.
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the brake pads. I had no pulsation or other issues, so I just bought pads and had a mechanic I trust install them. That was 35k miles ago and all is well. That brake job cost of all of $200 (including cost of pads).
"Turning" the rotors my sound like a good idea but the downside is a thinner rotor afterward. If there are no issues, such as warping, there's no benefit (well, no benefit to you. It benefits the $hop :-) )
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Same for me in my Silverado..I bought it used and have put close to 100,000 on it and I've never changed the brakes.BUT as I said it is SWMBO we are talking about...You would have to see her drive to know what I mean...LOL..Thanks for all the advice and tips..Will check back in Tuesday with the results..
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benick wrote:

Take the brake job cost out of her allowance each time and maybe her driving habits will change!
Matt
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Yea RIGHT , Matt...You forget who is the the boss...LOL...Got it all done though...The only problem I ran into was getting the rotors off but once again You Tube to the rescue..LOL..After beating on the first one for a bit with no luck I went to You Tube and searched for "How to get a stuck front rotor off" and got a couple of hits showing how to do it...You guys probably already know but I'll explain it for those who might not...You need 2 , 2 1/2'' x 3/8" bolts and 4 nuts..Put the bolts thru the holes for the caliper mounting bracket , put 2 nuts on each it leaving one flush with the end of the bolt as the pusher so not to mangle the end of the bolt..Put a wrench on the other and tighten with socket wrench.It will push against the rotor..Alternate between the 2 till you here a loud POP and presto it falls off...SLICK... Getting the 2 screws out of the rotor was a bit of a pain too but a little WD 40 and wacking the end of the screw driver with a hammer fixed that...Thanks for the tips...Till next time........
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benick wrote:

Actually, it sounds more like YOU have forgotten who is the boss. :-)
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LOL..No it just easier if she "thinks" she is in charge...If she gets her way , I get mine , if you know what I mean...LOL.Except for the garage..That's mine..For 30+ years it's worked..The new brakes are GREAT..Just like it was a new car again...Better than the shop did last time...
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Victek wrote:

29 years and counting.
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On 03/23/12 08:13, Voyager wrote:

She have you 'Pretty well trained', if after 29 years you still believe that you are the boss.
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