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1989 wrangler problem

I have a 1989 Jeep wrangler that will not run at a idle and only is getting about 8 MPG. I have had it in a shop and it ran for a few days. The timing is correct. I have replaced the carburetor, Oxygen sensor, PCV valve, timing chain and sprockets, plugs, wires, distributor. The shop could not find a vacuum leak. The charcoal canister only had the carb vent line and gas line hooked up, the purge lines are both not hooked up. My emission light is on. my temperature gauge does not work. The catalytic converter is cut off. For the most part I have plenty of power. If I set the idle at about 10 thousand RPM It runs good other than the bad fuel mileage. The engine has 170 thousand on it but the compression seems to still be good and it doesn't burn much oil.

Reply to
David F.
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Cool.

Jerry

Reply to
Jerry Newton

I love it when people insist 'the timing is correct' after it won't run after a timing gear change....

How about the order of repairs?

Why was the timing chain changed? They do not wear out.

Did all this trouble happen after the change?

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"David F." wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Take it back to the mechanic, they know what has been done and where next to look, maybe at something they didn't tighten up.

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

For that much time, effort, and money, a 4.0 swap might be in order...

Chris

Reply to
Christian Fry

I think he meant 1000 ;-)

Go easy on him guys... I know him and recommended the group!

Reply to
Kevin Sperle

Reply to
David F.

Thanks for the info, it helps when trying to figure out something that looks like the whole book was tossed at with no fix still...

I am thinking the computer has taken a dump maybe.

The computer sets the mix on the carb dynamically. Can you take off the air filter and look down the carb throat while it is running to watch the pins at the back side of the carb? They should be moving as you give it shots of gas. They are tapered too, and should be in the center area of the taper. If all the way in so the pin looks fat and even or all the way out so the pin point shows, you have problems with the computer.

Look for the stain on the pin too, that will tell you where it normally runs at.

The computer can be bypassed and the carb can be manually set up for mix.

Needing 1000 rpm to idle means a lean mix or the pins on the computer's stepper motor all the way out. They are air mix pins, so full in is full rich. A manual set via the blocked off mix screws is best with them stuck in the center.

If you manually set the carb up because the computer has gone by by, the gas mileage will still suck because the timing advance is also computer controlled. Once again, it can be manually set up with the computer controls completely removed.

Here is a link on that:

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Mike

"David F." wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Sorry about the 10,000 rpm crack, Dave, I am just hackin on ya. Welcome to the group.

Listen to Romain, he knows his stuff.

Jerry

Reply to
Jerry Newton

Reply to
David F.

Replace your ignition module...

Reply to
ShnAndrsn

Reply to
L0nD0t.$t0we11

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

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