Vacuum lines on 82 4,2 Wagoneer oil out the dipstick tube

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Here is a rundown on the vacuum connections on the Carter BBD carb which yours should have stock I think. I don't think you have the feedback carb with the big electrical plug on the back, if you do, I can add more.

Basically the PCV system includes the charcoal canister (gas tank vent) and CTO valve as well as a ported line to the distributor to turn on the canister.

I also want the air cleaner lines working to prevent carb icing because I am up in Canada.

On the Stock Carter BBD or Carter-Weber BBD like mine, the drivers side back corner nipple goes to the air filter TAC (hot air flaps).

The big driver's side port on the bottom goes to the power brakes.

The center back big one goes to the PCV with a T fitting for the canister purge. If you have a solenoid on this line, toss it as a recall, only leave the T for the canister purge.

Back passenger side to choke pull off.

The valve cover side center goes to the distributor. It 'can' T for the CTO feed 'or'..

The front drivers side corner one goes to the CTO valve. From the CTO, a line goes to the canister purge signal 'and/or' one can be fed off this purge line to the air filter TVS and from there to the EGR.

Some folks feed the CTO to the TVS and then split off the line coming from this to make the canister and EGR lines.

Everything else is pretty much trash. __________________ Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail > I just got this wagoneer and all the vacuum lines are either missing or

Mike, Thanks. I do have the feedback carb. What would be different?

A J

You have a mile or two of extra vacuum lines compared to the basic BBD, things like a diverter valve to mix manifold and ported vacuum via a CTO valve for cold or warm running where the basic setup just uses ported vacuum to the distributor.

Are you in a strict emissions area? The emissions computer that controls the stepper motor's air mix pins ( via the O2 sensor) and the timing advance (knock sensor) can easily be bypassed and then the carb mix and timing get set up manually for a sweet 25% seat of the pants power boost.

It will still pass the emissions sniffer this way and the visual if you leave everything in place or only need certain things passed. For instance, I needed the air filter flaps and heat stove, the PCV, the canister or gas tank vent which is part of the PCV system, a working gas cap and the distributor vacuums hooked up to pass the visual emissions, then the ASM 2525 dyno sniffer test.

I can run you through that mod if you are interested.

Mike

Mike, I am in Fl no inspections of any sort so I can modify to any extent and not have a problem. I just need to know how. Not really worries about appearances. The pump is already gone and the manifold has been plugged. The EGR is still on there but since the pump is gone I suspect I can remove that as well. I am going to convert to an HEI dist that will be the only actual replacement mod. Anything else will have to be with existing equipment. The vacuum is giving me the biggest pain right now and I am having a real problem trying to figure out what goes where. Any help is greatly appreciated

A J

The HEI is problematic and makes for hard starts. Your Ford ignition has a second power line only used for starting with a different timing advance in it for easy starts. Also the HEI clones on the market have a gear that destroys the camshaft so you have to be sure which one you get to swap the gear out. The aftermarket gear is too hard and eats the cam gear.

That alone would take the computer out of the loop though so then you just need to set up the carb mix.

To keep your stock Ford ignition, you just need to add two new wires and hook the orange and purple wires at the distributor directly to the orange and purple at the ignition module way down on the drivers fender.

You then set the timing to 8-9 BTDC at idle and use the two front screws to get the best lean idle out of the carb.

The stepper motor on the carb has air bypass pins, you will want to step them to the center of their travel or with their shoulder about 1/8" from the back wall of the carb. This is where the computer runs them for high speed mix.

To get the best lean idle mix, I start with the front bottom screws about 5 turns out each. I then turn them both in 1/4 turn at a time and give it a rev to clear, then another 1/4 turn and another rev. It will come to a point where that last 1/4 turn causes a stumble. At that point I back them out 1/4 turn or 1/8 turn if it is going to the emissions sniffer. While doing this I may have to adjust the rpm several times to keep it about 700 rpm or so.

After that, all you need is the PCV system which includes the charcoal canister (gas tank vent) and the ported vacuum off the valve cover side of the carb for the distributor. Your engine's camshaft is designed for an EGR so it won't hurt to have it in and the air filter flaps if you want to drive it below freezing so the carb doesn't turn into a block of ice.

Mike

2000 Cherokee Sport 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:

Mike, I am in Fl no inspections of any sort so I can modify to any extent and not have a problem. I just need to know how. Not really worries about appearances. The pump is already gone and the manifold has been plugged. The EGR is still on there but since the pump is gone I suspect I can remove that as well. I am going to convert to an HEI dist that will be the only actual replacement mod. Anything else will have to be with existing equipment. The vacuum is giving me the biggest pain right now and I am having a real problem trying to figure out what goes where. Any help is greatly appreciated

A J

Well if you don't mind hard starting, then the GM HEI can work. Some folks have to have a kill switch in there so they can crank the engine over first, then flip the switch for the HEI to turn on and hopefully catch. The advance can be too great on some which stalls the starter basically. Some others have a hardened gear that will destroy the Jeep cam so you may need to source out a Jeep distributor gear. See if you can dent the gear with a drill bit, if you can, it's OK, if you can't it will kill the cam.

That would take care of the computer also.

Then you just need your gas tank vent/PCV system.

That means the PCV line goes to the back of the carb base plate. if there are any solenoid switches on the PCV line toss them out, they were a failed recall part. You then put a T fitting in it, about 3" from the carb if there already isn't one there.

From this T fitting, you go to the purge line on the top of the canister, just below the round valve. The next line over on the canister goes to the gas tank vent and the last large line goes to the top of the carb, or the float bowl vent.

Is a good site to see what does what. To turn on the canister you need a ported vacuum signal. You can take the line from the front corner of the carb and go down to the CTO valve and from their you go to the top purge of the canister. This means the canister will only turn on when you are warmed up and at speed.

The ported vacuum source for the distributor is on the valve cover side of the BBD.

The back passenger corner goes to the choke pull off.

The back drivers corner goes to the air filter flaps or cap it.

Mike