3.9 overheating - update

A few months I posted a query about my RRC overheating and pressure build up. To recap, I'd just bought it (it was cheap!) and it started to overheat on the way home. Needle stayed just under the red all the way. Occasionally when using it locally it boiled over through the expansion tank. Not good. When cold, it would start to overheat after about 10 mins.

To date I have carried out the following:

- replaced expansion tank cap

- replaced thermostat (didn't have a toggle-y thing on it like the old one did, but it was supplied by a LR specialist near to me so it must be ok....)

- replaced both head gaskets

- replaced waterpump.

I used it on a 40 mile journey over the weekend for the first time, involving motorways and A roads. The temp needle didnt go past half way at all, however the cooling fans at the front were on, so it was getting a bit warm but not to the extent it was before I did all the work. And when i was in the queue for the lights the needle did start to creep up but then once moving, it went back down again.

The coolant level in the expansion tank is at the same level as I have been checking it daily after a run (when cold of course!) No cross contamination that I can see.

Any suggestions as to what could be causing this extra overheating? I haven't yet tried a reverse flush on the rad because it looks complicated to remove, what with all those oil coolers etc..

TIA.

Reply to
Pacman
Loading thread data ...

During stardate Mon, 10 Oct 2005 10:27:05 +0100, "Pacman" uttered the imortal words:

The Rad on my 1990 RR TD was simple enough to remove. The cooler etc were seperate units so once the cover plate along the top is removed then I just pulled out the bit I needed rather than the who shabang.

No doubt no I've said that the Petrol version is all in one.

Given the lengths you have gone to I'd whip out the rad and take it to a back street rad mender / maker /sales. Our local one costs peanuts and they will know how to sort it good and proper.

Lee D

-- Success is going from failure to failure without a loss of enthusiam. Winston Churchill

formatting link
'76 101 Camper '64 88" IIa V8 Auto '97 Disco ES Auto LPG'd '01 Laguna

Reply to
Lee_D

Does it have a viscous fan fitted still? If so, all the symptoms of a "soft" coupling, replace the coupling and it'll be fine. Fans shouldn't have been on whilst you were actually sitting at speed on your run, how do you know they were on whilst at speed, or were they on when you stopped? If so, this is normal as the heat-soak from the working engine has no cooling by ram air as you slow down to a halt, so the temp rises and the fans come on. Badger.

Reply to
Badger

It does have viscous fan....also 2 fans other otherside of the radiator..

I notice it when I stop and get out. Should the needle move at all when stationary for a minute or is it expected to rise a little? I'd expect it to rise if sitting for a few mins, but not half a min....

Reply to
Pacman

If it's just been "worked" and you become stationary it will rise quite quickly, but if the viscous fan is operating properly it shouldn't need the electric fans at all. The exception being the std fit aircon fan which will run regardless of actual engine temp. The viscous fan provides a smoother temperature control gradient, as opposed to an on-off switch cycling the engine between 2 different temp values (fan on, 100 deg, fan off, 86deg, for arguments sake). If you leave the (warmed-up) engine idling the fans will come on after aprox. 5 minutes and run for around a minute at a time, settling to a cycle of approx 1 min on, 1 min off. That seems to be sort of ballpark figures for twin fans. The viscous coupling can be checked as follows:- 1st thing in the morning, before starting, pop the bonnet and try to turn the fan by hand, there should be some resistance but you will turn it relatively easily. Free-spinning = knackered, totally solid = knackered. Start up, rev engine to around 2000, fan will be heard to rev up, and then slow down as you maintain the revs. No fan speed increase = knackered, no release after about

30 seconds = knackered. With the engine hot enough for the lecky fans to be on, switch engine off and try turning viscous fan by hand again, if there is little or no resistance, it is knackered and needs replacing. this is what I suspect you will find, a free-spinning fan when hot. Badger.
Reply to
Badger

Thanks for that, I'll give that a go later.

Mr Beamends - how much for a new coupling in case my is bosted?

Reply to
Pacman

£50.41 inc VAT

Richard

Reply to
beamendsltd

so Pacman was, like...

These aren't the fans for the aircon, are they?

Reply to
Richard Brookman

Just a little thought on your prob. I had an overheat problem on my '83 3.5l. RR (now departed). Changed thermostat- still o'heating. Replaced vicious coupling- still o'heating. Pulled out 5-core tropical radiator, opened & cleaned- still o'heating. Ran some acid cooling system cleaner through the block for 100 k's or so, flushed & replaced coolant- VOILA!

Might be worth trying.

  • * * TAKE IT BUSH, OR TAKE IT BACK!
Reply to
Natalie Drest

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.