300 TDI alternator malfunction

Simon Oates uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Check the voltage at the Battery. You should get 12 volts engine off and around 14.7 volts or so engine running.

At least you will know if you can use it till you get a new one.

I went for a price for a new one on a 1990 RRC with a VM engine. I then got it repaired saving myself over £450 on the price of a new one... I kid you not! Look up autoelecticians in the yellow pages and if you get a friendly one they will tell you where they get theres rebuilt... expect to pay around £35 for a refurb.

Lee D

Tried checking the connection at the alternator? Plug fitted properly, pins clean etc..

You didn't mention what was happening to the ignition light when you were switching the headlights on/off.

I was confused by the interaction between the tacho and the headlights but the tacho power, ignition warning light, oil pressure light (did this ever light?) etc. all share the same power supply off the ignition switch and there is also a connection to the headlight circuit. From the diagram I don't understand how that sequential dip/main switch works but it does look as though it may be possible to get a feed from the headlight circuit into the supply to the tacho and ignition light etc.. The headlamp relay (energised in headlight position of lighting switch) closes a contact between something in the dip switch and the circuit that interests us.

Assuming therefore that the intended feed from the ignition switch is faulty/erratic etc., look for power on the white cable from the ignition switch.

This white feed also controls the ignition load relay which powers things including the indicators(not hazard circuit). What do the indicators do?

Do you have a wiring diagram? If not, would one help? e-mail address?

On or around Sat, 27 Jan 2007 21:13:52 -0000, "Simon Oates" enlightened us thusly:

I think the 300 TDi alternators have an earth strap onto the engine block.

also check the engine earth strap and the battery-to-body one.

rev counter is driven by the alternator as you no doubt know, but it's a separate terminal.

red light dimming but not going out is sometimes a diode-pack fault - in practice, generally, it's a new alternator.

BTW, last time I wanted a new 300 TDi alternator it was much cheaper from Partco than from LR... - I daresay the usual suspects such as Beamends and Paddock can supply them at half-decent rates too though - I happened to be passing Partco in Carmarthen at the time.

Thanks to all for all your input. I'll check all the connections and the voltages today, but my gut feel is that it will turn out to be a faulty diode pack (as the rev counter springs back into life when the headlights are switched it seems to me like a fault in the control circuitry that senses what charge is needed??) and so will be new alternator time. Prices before VAT seem to start at about £59 (John Craddock) and £62.90 (Beamends) so it could be worse! "Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

On or around Sun, 28 Jan 2007 09:37:31 -0000, "Simon Oates" enlightened us thusly:

that's cheaper than I've seen 'em. Is that for the 100A one?

Richard at Beamends lists AMR 4248 @ £62.90 ex-VAT, not sure of ampage but would guess 65 and AMR4247 Alternator A127 -100amp at £88 ex-VAT

Craddock list AMR4249 alternator 300TDI 127/65 amp @ £59.00 ex-VAT and YLE10113 alternator A127/100 amp Disco 300TDI at £99 ex-VAT

Paddock list the YLE10113G at £93.60 ex-VAT.

This particular Rangie only does road use in the UK, and is on my disposal list (I plan to sell it sometime in the next month or so)

Any thoughts or recommendations? Given the planned sale, I'm obviously tempted by the cheapest option!

Simon

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

On or around Sun, 28 Jan 2007 23:43:21 -0000, "Simon Oates" enlightened us thusly:

I thought all 300 TDis were 100A, obviously not. I assume the engine's from a disco?

not sure why they went to a 100A on the later ones, unless it's to run extra electrical toys. The standard battery isn't that big. Depending on what you want to run, 65A (if it'll fit, make sure of that first) should be enough power.

Not sure where the 300TDI engine came from as the conversion was done long before my time, and I don't have the engine number to hand but I expect it came from a Disco, unless it was a new one (I seem to remember Land Rover offering a TDI conversion package years ago??)

I agree the increase to 100 amp was probably driven by the need to supply electric seats, heated seats, heated front windscreen etc with power. I have none of those, so I think you are right that the 65 amp version should be ok, if it fits.

Thanks again. Simon.

"Austin Shackles" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...