Playtimes over - Re Chassis

*IF* you have access to a forklift, or a nice tall barn, then the chassis swap is surprisingly easy.......

This is the rough timing of an 88" swap I did a few years ago.

Undo *everything* holding the body on (you're guaranteed to miss something....) - 1 evening.

Using strops through the door holes - lift it up (hand winch works very well in the abscence of a fork lift, but don't tell the HSE)

Roll out the old chassis and fit axles etc to new one

- 1 evening

Roll new chassis underneath, drop the body on and bolt it all on - 1 evening

Sort everything out - 2 evenings.

So, allow a week, with two people working. The above assumes no repairs are being done at all.

If you dont have access to a forklift or barn, you could hire a block and tack hoisty thing from HSS Lift and Shift, otherwise doing the swap bit by bit will take yonks.....

Probably not a whole lot of help, but that's one way of doing it.

Richard

Does this mean you'll have a Jag 4.2 lump and gearbox going cheap at some point over the next year?

Alex

You're also (probably) going to need:

1) new shocks + bushes 2) new brake lines + hoses + all the clips to secure pipe to chassis 3) new exhaust + all the mountings 4) new rear wiring loom

Don't know how rusty or old your ones of the above are, but if I were to do this myself I would save up and aquire the above bits anyway as it will make your life very much easier and quicker to do the swap.

Think you'll probably find you're better of with my old friend the angle grinder..

Speaking of bolts, I have mixed feelings as to whether or not to recommend LR fastners. They supply "complete" nut and bolt kits for LR models.

I ordered the kit for a 110CSW and got a lot of bits - about four hundred quids worth of stuff.

Unfortunately a lot of it was plain wrong for the vehicle - some of it was for later, some for earlier and a lot of it was stuff that just wasn't necessary and it was actually quite annoying replacing bolts and stuff that were OK - stuff like the dash fastenings - it's not like they rust all that badly! And the steering wheel nut and star washer - really rather a waste.

Stuff that we found wasn't included in the "complete" kit was EVERYTHING needed for the suspension/axles - things that were necessary to replace. That was an extra kit!

So what I'd probably recommend would be to get the kit for the axles/suspension as you'll probably end up replacing most of those bolts anyway and just get a large amount of stainless/high tensile bolts and washers from Namrick or your local supplier. We used old inner tube to make washers to isolate the stainless where necessary.

Richard's chassis - fantastic service - delivered where and when they said they would, chassis quality was top notch, all holes in right places and cleaned of galv so they were the right size for the bolts :)

Regards

William MacLeod

b> Sort everything out - 2 evenings.

Wear Cape and save the world again...

On or around Wed, 17 Nov 2004 16:12:08 GMT, William MacLeod enlightened us thusly:

I'd recommend going all-stainless for anything under the vehicle, unless you know for sure that the bolts concerned are critical on strength. A2-70 stainless is not that far off HT 8.8 steel in strength terms - almost all applications for 8.8 are gonna be OK. A2-80 is better, if you can get 'em, they're almost identical to 8.8, IIRC. Most of the stainless ones I've bought from such as screwfix are A2-70, and I've been fitting 'em to all kinds of stuff under mine. I also fit 'em to things with captive nuts, as at least only the one part rusts...

I dunno, at the moment I am a patcher and a botcher myslef, I suppose the time might come when there is more patch than original, got to admit that my chassis is certainly not the same one that came out of Solihull.

Well I reckon what would really be fun (and I am just fantasising here) is the replacement of the chassis with tudor oak beams :)

Maybe and only just maybe not... I'm exploring fitting a V8 to the package presently. I've taken the whole thing some thought and consider now that the way forward may be to install a V8 as in the sd1 rover. This uses the same gearbox but different flex plate and t/c and bell housing.

At the moment Percy is about to be mothballed unit I make a positive decisiion one way or the other... like when it's warm outside and light past

7pm again.

Should also give me time to find a suitable donor too fingers crossed.

Lee D

that'll be a morgan then............