Clio - Central locking not working

You'd need to describe it a bit better. Is it a two wire system? If so, it should get 12 volts, with the polarity swapping for open or close. If more than two wires, ie feed and control, pass. But are you sure there isn't meant to be a control box with the whole lot?

You will have to fit the control unit, or else, (depending on the type of motors fitted, wire it through two standard relays).

Thanks for your and Dave Plowmans replies.

The system is a 2 wire set up with the driver side having the main motor with I think 6 wires.

The locks do take 12v as Dave said, as I put one accross the battery and it worked fine. So at least the motors are not duff.

I am not sure what this control unit is. Had a look at the wiring diagram and all I can see is either the master switch (the one in front of the gearstick). This controls all the doors, and has a 12v feed going to it. And the remote sensor, didn't check the wiring on this.

But before I go any further, I need to find out which part of this set up drained my battery flat the other night :-).

thanks,

/heds

I don't - obviously - know the exact setup in your car, but the switch mechanisms tend to fall into two types. One has the timer to give a pulse built in, and the other is a plain switch with an external controller. A DVM should show what type you have, but the ones with the timer usually need a load on them to operate corrrectly - ie a quick test with a DVM on the bench won't show much.

And that's before you start on some of the latest multiplexed types. ;-)

If you can't get anywhere, Maplin do a kit with controller, and the motors are a direct mechanical replacement for many types, so pretty easy to fit. It was on special offer recently at about 20 quid.

There's usually five wires on the switching motor. The two motor wires and a switch input, (usually earth) and two outputs, (up and down). The two outputs switch a controller which reverses polarity to the rest of the motors for up and down. The basic system is very simple, but when you get into OEM systems with dash switches and crash release systems etc it can become complicated. If you can't get exact details on your system, then as Dave has said, you're probably better off getting a cheap controller and wiring that into the existing motors.

My SDI, and other Leyland products of that era, have the switch and controller all in one - in a unit which looks identical to the motors. But doesn't have a motor, which means you can't just add a remote facility. Later Range Rovers have a unit which looks the same, but with a motor and five wires. But I'm not sure if it has the controller to give the pulse built in or separate.

The reason for the controller is to give a short duration controlled pulse from a constantly made switch - otherwise the motors would draw current all the time.

The message from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

However - because it's physically identical to the others you can mount another one on top piggyback using the same mounting holes (there's been room to do this on Metro, Maestro and probably most others) and link the output of the motor to the operating rod with a bit of coathanger and a pair of those tiny clamps for jointing steel cable. Works fine.

I had to do a cut and shunt job on the mounting bracket to get the resultant pair 'central' again for clearance purposes - but even then had to cut a hole in the door frame to clear the bottom of the extra unit.

If I were doing it again, I'd use the Maplin 5 wire unit which appears a direct mechanical replacment and make a controller. The SD1 system suffers badly from voltage drop when it gets old, so I had to modify it anyway to feed the volts into the middle of the loom instead of at one end.