tools needed for brake disc and pads on a mk4 tdci mondeo

Wouldn't you be better asking the vendor? There aren't, at a quick glance, any sizes or specifications and as the Mk4 Mondeo is a bit new then many people 'here' may not (though many also might) know the specs of the brake calipers/pistons.

My wifes Mondeo (mk2) uses a 7mm Allen key tool, we didn't need any other special tools to replace brake pads, discs, wishbones, ARB's, bushes, driveshafts and sundry other bits.

Hello Thanks for the reply I did ask the vendor but got a stock repsonse off i only sell them.

There are lots of replys in talkford but none of them link or list the part numbers of the tool.

cheers and best wishes

Hello,

I can't help with your specific question, sorry, but I've just bought a Mondeo too. I was wondering is the mk4 very different to the earlier models or would a Haynes manual for an earlier model help?

Also, you can buy TIS for many other makes of car from ebay but there are very few ford ones and the few that are for sale seem to be a few years old and don't cover the newer models. Does anyone know the date of the latest TIS and where to find one? I'm sure that would go into more detail than a Haynes manual and help you with your questions.

I see you've mentioned talkford. I had a look (google) for mondeo forums and there were so many. Is talk ford the best one?

IME, having information that's nearly right can be worse than having no information at all.

Hope you don't consider I'm being too pedantic, but in this context TIS is Ford's Technical Information System. Other manufacturers will have similar systems with different names.

With respect to the OP, a TIS DVD would not have helped him with his question; it's a data system intended for professionals, and it would be assumed that a workshop full of both standard and Ford special tools were already available. For the question he asked, a Haynes manual would be much better. TIS doesn't really have "How-to" guides, apart for some of the more esoteric repairs. It's most definitely not a "Haynes plus" information source.

After I bought my first Focus in 1999, I contacted Haynes to ask when a manual would be available. They told me the average time from the introduction of a new model to the completion of a manual is five years, so not long to wait now ;-)

Chris

That's because first and 2nd owner don't do DIY on cars. So the market for workshop manuals is nearly nil until the 3rd owner at around 6 years. Even then the market is small until the 4th owner at about 9-10 years old.

Fred

Haynes Mondeo Mk4 manual is due for release in 2012 according to Haynes.

In regard to how different they are then um thats not a easy question to answer.I am in the process of servicing the car. Only time will tell how easy or hard access is, or how much time and what tools are required to do the job.

The only 2 main issues are for the tdci are that I have found so far.

Fuel filter is located under the rear of the car. Not so much in changing it , but is 'may' take out the sensors and its a trip to a man with a laptop. So on that front although I have the filter its going to go into a garage for the fitting

Odour filter is located inside the car behind the bulkhead . Carpet up, glove box out and facia's panels out. Took me about an hour to do it

Quite why Ford have moved these filters to these locations is beyond me.

TIS most of the copies out there - ebay etc are not very current although they do have some use .

Citroen, pug and fiat have too

Sorry, I don't have one, so didn't know that! I assumed they were much more comprehensive. Even dealers have to learn about new models/new features so I thought that was how they did it.

[...]

Every part of a car's design is done to make it as cheap as possible to assemble. Chances are, the whole heating and ventilating system, including the filter, are assembled robotically and fitted to the car as one unit.

Chris

Another good reason to buy cars that are about 6 YO ;-)

Similarly, when my teenage son bought Vista, I didn't. Still running XP / Office 2003(as are my three main clients)

To be fair to Ford, a few years ago they were also very strongly driven by "service times/costs". Now for things like "removal of dashboard" I would have to agree with you.

Just changed front and rear pads on MK 4 Mondeoe 2.2 TDCI. Front pads extre mely easy. Just pull off plastic caps that cover the screws retaining the c alliper assembly and use allen key socket to remove these. Remove retaining spring on the outside of the calliper and the calliper with pads can be ma nipulated free of the disc. Careful not to stretch flexible brake pipe by k eeping weight of calliper off it. Then only need to push piston back. I us ed rewind tool that is required for rear pads (Machine Mart £10 plus VAt) but as the piston does not need to be rotated a G clamp could also be used . Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir and remove excess fluid with a s yringe if necessary. Reassembly the reverse process.

Rear pads a bit more difficult requiring removal of the calliper assembly r etaining bolts and here the piston has to be rotated at the same time as be ing pushed back so buy the proper tool from Machine Mart. You can try and m odify sealant guns/ g clamps etc but it really isn't worth it for the sake of £12 quid. Careful not to damage the rubber seals as the piston goes ba ck in. They can become twisted to take it slowly and flick the seals to mak e sure they are sliding over the piston as it goes back in. Then reasemble. Hope this helps any new googlers!

remely easy. Just pull off plastic caps that cover the screws retaining the calliper assembly and use allen key socket to remove these. Remove retaini ng spring on the outside of the calliper and the calliper with pads can be manipulated free of the disc. Careful not to stretch flexible brake pipe by keeping weight of calliper off it. Then only need to push piston back. I used rewind tool that is required for rear pads (Machine Mart £10 plus VA t) but as the piston does not need to be rotated a G clamp could also be us ed. Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir and remove excess fluid with a syringe if necessary. Reassembly the reverse process.

retaining bolts and here the piston has to be rotated at the same time as being pushed back so buy the proper tool from Machine Mart. You can try and modify sealant guns/ g clamps etc but it really isn't worth it for the sak e of £12 quid. Careful not to damage the rubber seals as the piston goes back in. They can become twisted to take it slowly and flick the seals to m ake sure they are sliding over the piston as it goes back in. Then reasembl e. Hope this helps any new googlers!

Note. Usenet bottom post VVV. E-mail top post.

And you need to limit line length to less than 80 char. Usenet used to run on teletype writers (110 char/sec) with acoustic coupler on a telephone handset (before modems and internet were invented).

No idea of which hand tool is needed for which car. I got a Ford one for the Mazda 323F 1.6 GXi auto. It did the job nicely.

Make sure you line up the slots to the right place, that means you have to rotate the piston by an exact number of 1/2 turns. 6 and 3/4 or 5 and

5/8 turns etc is wrong.

Don't do what I did.

Good job I didn't take it out and test it as I woke up the next day to a that I hadn't aligned the slots in the piston and the inner pads were being pushed by just the pip on the back. So jack the car, wheels off, knock brake pipe and handbrake cable clips off, remove calliper bolt and rotate them on rear pin. Sure enough they weren't in the right place. Use to tool to set slots that pip fits in correctly and put it all back together.

For the last 15 years all the rear brakes I've done have been disc service brake with drum handbrake. Simple straight push back piston.

Further information for searchers - a RH caliper rewind tool is needed. Any generic one is fine. The back of the pad is flat so there is no need to turn it a certain number of turns to line anything up.