flat spot on acceleration?

Hi all,

I have a '91 BRG 1.6 at about 80K which seems to be suffering an increasing 'flat spot' on acceleration - most noticeable when cold first thing, but it also does it when warm, (i.e. if it has been standing switched off for half hour or so, then when you start her up, it does it again...)

Best way to explain it is when trying to accelerate in 1st, 2nd or 3rd, it feels like it is 'dragging' or resisting the acceleration, yet if you ease off the throttle slightly the car actually speeds up like it's been released! I rarely put my foot totally to the floor, btw... ;-)

My better half's more technical observations are - When stationary, if you put your foot down on the throttle in neutral it coughs, and misfires before revving up, yet there is plenty of air being sucked in via the airbox inlet.

We are puzzled! The car was serviced and the cambelt changed a few months ago by a reasonably competent (we think!) mechanic, and they jetwash-cleaned the engine bay as it suffered a large oil leak (they didn't change the oil seal at the front, then found that it needed it!!)...yet it seems to have started happening since then...

We have changed the plug leads, changed the oil, even removed the cat out the system (we can do that in UK as the car is a 1991) yet still no change...

All suggestions will be gratefully received!!

Many thanks, Jo.

Reply to
Jo
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It could be a malfunctioning oxygen sensor, when they die the ECU thinks the engine is running lean and richens theair/fuel mixture--bogging is a sign of an overrich mix.

When O2 sensors age they often have to be hotter than the 650*F minimum operating temperature of a new one to produce a useful and accurate signal, this could explain why it's only a cold or cool engine problem.

jetwash-cleaned

Reply to
Cliff Knight

Hi,

many thanks for the suggestion, we did try disconnecting the sensor to see if it made any difference...but there was no change...

could it still be the sensor?

Reply to
Jo

If there was no change when you disconnected the O2 sensor then there's even a better chance that it is the problem. Unlike many sensors that use electricity to measure something, O2 sensors actually generate electricity in proportion to amount of oxygen in the exhaust gasses, as compared to the amount of oxygen in the atmosphere (O2 sensors are vented to admit air to the "other" side of the sensor element). This is approximately 0.45V or so at the optimal 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio (this is not technically correct, but it's close enough for this discussion) ...

If the voltage is above 0.45V the mixture is judged to be rich and the ECU reduces the amount of fuel being injected, if the voltage is under 0.45V the mix is judged to be lean and the ECU increases the amount of fuel. The sensor itself consists of a cone shaped platinum plated, porous zirconia, ceramic element that is exposed to exhaust gas on the outside of the cone and atmospheric air on the inside of the cone (through the earlier mentioned vent). The difference in oxygen content between the exhaust gas and atmospheric air triggers a galvanic reaction that generates a voltage--when O2 in the exhaust is low (indicating an overly rich mixture) the difference between O2 in the exhaust and plain 'ol air is large and the generated voltage is large, the voltage drops as the amount of O2 in the exhaust increases (indicating a lean mix).

Obviously when you disconnect the sensor the output is 0.0V, making the ECU think the mix is lean, which makes it try to increase the amount of fuel being injected, which makes the engine run far too rich, which makes it bog when you try to accelerate (which inherently feeds more gas to the engine anyway).

As O2 sensors age the platinum becomes contaminated or corroded and the output drops, so your observing no difference when you disconnected it actually supports the diagnosis of a failed O2 sensor.

-cliff-

Reply to
Cliff Knight

In which case the engine management system should flag a fault code.

Except that the eng> many thanks for the suggestion, we did try disconnecting the sensor to see

Disconnecting the sensor will have no effect on cold running. It will make the motor run rich when hot and it will cause the computer to log a fault with the oxygen sensor.

Unlikely.

You need to clear the computer to get rid of the spurious oxygen sensor fault you've induced, then go for a drive, then query the computer to see what faults it logs. Instructions on how to do all this will be in the workshop manual, thought doubtless someone has put them on the net somewhere too.

Reply to
Graham

Thanks for the advice guys!

We have tried querying the ECU as instructed by the manual but no lights appear anywhere...(see my new post - just where is the engine check light!)

Surely now we have disconnected the o2 sensor we should now be getting a fault code, like you say, even if we didn't get a fault code before...so we're just wondering if we've got a dead bulb, or a disconnected wire to the check engine light, but until we know whereabouts this light is...we can't check the darn thing!!!

gosh, can you tell it's been a long day...

Jo.

Reply to
Jo

The ECU on the early Miata (I have a '90) seems to be a brain dead sort of fella'--the O2 sensor was broken off by the PO's fumbled attempt to change it out when I got mine, there was no fault code logged.

You are of course correct that the O2 sensor is ignored when the engine is cold (and also above 4K RPM), however the original poster also indicated that the problem occurred when the engine was warm started after 1/2 hour or so--I'd still take a close look at the O2 sensor.

Reply to
Cliff Knight

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