Replacing Oil Pressure Sensor/ VDO or FAE

The oil pressure gauge on my 81 380sl w/150k miles is staying pegged at 3 bars until the oil warms up, and acts erratically after that. Since the oil level is fine, and none of the other gauges are erratic,
I'm assuming it's the sender, rather than the gauge or a ground. But even if it isn't, the sender needs to be replaced sooner of later anyway. So I might as well start there.
I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with the FAE sender, since its about $30 less than the VDO sender.
Thanks very much in advance.
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more pressure with higher RPM and/or lower temps. idling with high temps should show lower pressures, but IME it stays over 1.5 Bars with my oil.

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On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:52:34 -0700, Martin Joseph

Not really. My oil pressure used to drop to between 1.5 and 2 bars when I was idling.

Also, the gauge will stay up at 3 for a while even after I turn the car off. Not normal

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The sender is fine. It works sometimes perfectly. If it was bad it wouldn't.
Take it off and I'll bet you'll find the braided copper wire going to it is shredded. Clean it up and desolder the old dead bits from the silver connecter, resolder the now-clean wire onto the now-clean silver barrel and it'll be good as new.
You'd have to do this anyway with a new sender, so uh...
Keep in mind these cars are meant to be repaired.
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On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 17:59:24 +0000 (UTC), snipped-for-privacy@news.vrx.net (Richard Sexton) wrote:

Thanks Richard. I'll try what you're suggesting, but since I haven't even looked at the sender before, I just wanted to be sure of what you're suggesting. Are you saying that the wire is soldered on to the connector, or the connector is soldered on to the sender, so that I'll have to get a soldering iron out there to disconnect it?
In either case, thanks for the help on this.

Yeah. You're tellling me LOL
Tim
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The sender screws into the engine and has a post sticking up.
What fits on there is a plastic connector shell that has a silver plated barrel connector (used everywehre on these cars, seat switches, headlight connectors etc) that has braided copper wire soldered into it.
Just like the headlight connectors, you open the plastic shell and the silver barrel with wire pops out but I suspect what you're gonna find is the wires are all broken and makes an intermittant connection (at best) until it warms up then it doesn't. This is fairly normal and predictable, for copper wire in a hot place subject to vibrations work-hardens then breaks.
I've redone both the temp and oil pressure sensors which faield on my car.
Heres some pics of what you get once you open the plastic connector shell:
    http://articles.mbz.org/electric/126connectors /
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Terrific! Much appreciated. I'll give it a shot.
Tim
On Mon, 17 Jul 2006 21:48:29 +0000 (UTC), snipped-for-privacy@news.vrx.net (Richard Sexton) wrote:

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