Or going. No steam, no overheating, but a header tank full of milkshake and the header was pressurised enough to squeeze neat oil out of the header tank past the very tight cap.
Nothing in the oil. Starting it with the header cap off, no bubbles, no fountain of goop.
Could be turbo (not much cheaper) and it still boosts well so not=20 likely.
Don't think there is an oil cooler on these, the autos use a liquid=20 cooled transmission cooler, but manuals don't have one.
Going to check the oil in the morning but the goop smells like engine=20 oil. And the seepage that forced past was dark brown/black but clean and=20 had the feel of engine oil between the fingers.
Reckon it will cost about =A3500 with all the gaskets, labour, flush and=20 fluids and filters, plus a new poly bush engine top mount as the old one=20 is a bit ropey and needs to come off while the head is off.
It had a replacement trans/clutch at the roughly common time for the=20 age, and it has mostly history, and I do like driving it. Feels nice and=20 tight still.
Waiting for a firm quote from the guy who had been maintaining it, he is=20 the tech officer for the owners cluband knows his stuff.=20
They do it when cylinder pressures are high and temperatures are low. and its normally just combustion gas. If you are getting oil in the water it has to be an oilway under pressure leaking into a waterway. Unusual I think?
Could be turbo (not much cheaper) and it still boosts well so not likely.
Don't think there is an oil cooler on these, the autos use a liquid cooled transmission cooler, but manuals don't have one.
Going to check the oil in the morning but the goop smells like engine oil. And the seepage that forced past was dark brown/black but clean and had the feel of engine oil between the fingers.
Reckon it will cost about £500 with all the gaskets, labour, flush and fluids and filters, plus a new poly bush engine top mount as the old one is a bit ropey and needs to come off while the head is off.
It had a replacement trans/clutch at the roughly common time for the age, and it has mostly history, and I do like driving it. Feels nice and tight still.
Waiting for a firm quote from the guy who had been maintaining it, he is the tech officer for the owners cluband knows his stuff.
Do it yourself! Takes a couple of hours and you know its done right. And hugely cheaper!
It's five hours labour when you know what you are doing. Timing gear has to come off. One of the more technical guys on the forums said "I did mine, it only took me two days, and the cam timing was only one tooth off".
I'm a ham fisted clutz and I know my limits. Its usually cheaper to get them to do it once, than get them to look at a pile of peices then suck through their teeth.
I got it for a good price. I paid =A320 more than the garage who=20 maintained offered to buy it back for if it didn't sell (I confirmed it=20 with the garage and they knew the car).
When I had the XM, the local garage stalled for so long on doing a clutch on it that I eventually took it away. Took it to Mr Clutch and the guy happened to be an XM expert. The job took something like 2 hours.
Oil level looks fin this morning. Barely lower at all. And the mayo on top of the coolant is thicker, but still plenty of clear coolant under it and room for expansion.
The scum is brown oily, but what was forced over the top was like black old oil.
I wonder if a HG has been done in the past and the rad hasn't been flushed. The level where the scum starts tallies with the small rad overflow pipe.
I have the AA but I called them out a couple of times when I had the=20 Rangie.
Was fine driving today. Warmed up a bit quicker and left normal a bit=20 sooner in traffic but as soon as the fan kicked in or I moved it dropped=20 back.
Been to Tesco today to buy a turkey baster to suck the crap and most of=20 the coolant out of the header, replace it with plain water (leave the=20 rest of the coolant until I can flush it), and see what happens.
There doesn't appear to have been any extra boil over and the gunk isn't=20 any thicker or deeper in the header.
Just waiting confirmation, but it is going to cost me =A3500 for New HG inc Labour, camcover gasket, headset, and timing case cover, New engine torque arm/top mount bushes(bit ropy and they need to remove=20 the top mount to get the head off). Full service (made sense to get the rest done while the oil and filter=20 and coolant was being done). While they have the arch liner out, fix the rear washer jet. Think might=20 be a pipe off. It worked when I got the car, then stopped, but the pump=20 works and the water comes out infront of the front wheel instead of on=20 the rear screen.
That is also going to include a loan car while he has it for a couple of=20 days.
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