1990 Volvo 740 Brake Hoses

Today I took the old girl into my local Foreign Car shop to have my brakes looked at due to the fact that the pedal is getting "soft" After a couple fo hours the lead tech told me that the problem was with my original brake hoses and that they needed to be replaced both front and back. He went on to say that if they are not replaced the constant binding on the front especially will cause the roters to overheat and warp. He did say that the calipers and pads appear to be in good shape and should not need replacing. I thought that since it was only the hoses that needed replaced I was looking at a relatively inexpensive fix. Imagine my surprise when he gave me an estimate of 541.00(USD)!! This price only included rubber hoses and not the improved steel (TDI?) ones My questions to the group is this a fairly easy job for someone like me who knows very little about car maintenance? Is this a normal price to have the job done professionally? Finally is there a good place on the web that I could purchase the hoses and just have them install them? Sorry for the length I just wanted to consult with the group before I let myself get taken. Thanks

Reply to
JC
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That's an insane price. If you are handy at all, get yourself a set of stainless steel lines, some brake fluid, and do it yourself. If you aren't sure of how to properly bleed your brakes, this may help;

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for Volvo specific procedures on brakes. Good luck.

RS

Reply to
Rusty

Replacing the old lines is not terribly hard if you have a place to work with room and lighting. You will need a set of flare nut wrenches- these aren't cheap, but still a LOT less than the price you were quoted. On some older cars the hoses can become corroded into the calipers or wheel cylinders and become very difficult to remove. I have sheared off a few trying. Since this car is only 14 years old it shouldn't be a problem unless you live near a large body of salt water.

Thee is a lot of talk about the stainless lines. We have discussed this on a few BMW groups. Numerous reports about them giving a better feel are available, but this is usually after replacing old rubber lines. I replaced the front rubber lines on my motorcycle (dual discs) with original rubber and could feel the difference. Replacing old lines with ANYTHING new can make a difference.

If you want to pay the extra $$ and can find the DOT approved lines then sure. The problem is with some of the stainless lines that the swaged ends originally came from racing applications where they were replaced on a regular basis (once a season or so). The stiffness of the lines tends to cause excess stress at the ends and they can fatigue and rupture. The stainless lines are good in close quarters where the outer sheath can keep the lines from wearing through from friction. Unless you have a high performance set up or regularly drive quite hard where brake heat and fade is a problem, then I don't see the need. This is not necessarily the case if they are DOT approved, but the general recommendation is that unless you are racing the rubber lines are sufficient (and by general, I mean most any motor vehicle application). Still, they do look cool! And if the original lines only lasted that long, then I would be looking for an alternative source as well.

Try this- get a micrometer and check the diameter of one of the rubber lines in the middle of its span. Then have someone stand on the brake pedal (motor on so as to get good brake action) and check the diameter again. This will usually give you a good idea if the lines have lost their ability to retain and transmit the pressure. SOme lines get so bad that you can feel them expand by just holding your hand on them during the above test.

Old, soft lines should not cause the pads to stay in contact with the rotors, UNLESS they are decaying inside and sending particles into the master cylinder and the calipers. Brake pads not releasing fully from the rotor can be caused by:

1) dirty calipers with lots of crud and rust on the sliding surfaces not allowing the caliper to move (if so designed) or the pad to stick and not return. COuld even be a small stone stuck in there. 2) Dirt, rust, or other contaminants in the caliper causing the piston to stick in its bore. 3) Dirt in the ports in the master cylinder not allowing the fluid to return through it. 4) insufficient play in the brake pedal or weak pedal return spring (or weak spring be in the vac assist) causing it to press on the master cylinder not allowing the return port to be clear of the MC piston. 5) A driver who rests their foot on the brake pedal. 6) bad seals in the caliper or master cylinder 7) all of the above. 8) some of the above 9) some other stuff

FCP has the rubber lines for around $25-42 and the stainless for $60-100 depending on the car. Hell! That makes the labor to replace 3 or 5 lines around $340 to $480. I think there are ten folks here who would do it for half that, just for fun! I knew some guys who would do it for a six pack!!

Just my metric $.02 worth.

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvo '93 960 Estate

Reply to
Randy G.

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