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My 1990 Volvo 740 turbo

Hello all,

Just been lurkng around this group for a little while now and was hoping for some advice on my car. I have never been into buying a brand new car and hate the idea of a car payment so I am currently driving my 1990 740 turbo with 197,000 miles on the clock which I purchased for $500 mainly because I felt I could get many more miles out of it and the car is in overall nice shape. I was hoping to get some advice on a couple of points:

The headliner is all torn up in this car and is making a mess out of my otherwise nicely kept leather interior. I have seen the kits available from IPD for a hundred dollars and was wondering if anyone bought one and had it professionally installed( I have heard horrorshows about the diy jobs on these) and wgat that ran them.

I failed my inspection last week because of tie rods, the station said. I have seen them selling full tie rods and then just tie rod ends. At what point should you replace the entire tie rod vs doing just the tie rod ends?

My engine runs nice, mileage is about 20-14mpg. I am a little concerned about a lifter knock in the motor. Anyone familiar with a product they have used to quiet them down?

Thanks in advance for any advice, and happy motoring with these very well built automobiles

Reply to
Dozer
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Have a look at this to give you some idea of what's involved:

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The tie rod (we call 'em track rods here) has a ball joint at each end. The outer one is refered to as the track/tie rod end, and is easily replacable without needing the rod to be removed - it unscrews from the rod.

The inner joint is hidden in the rubber bellows, and is an integral part of the rod. If this joint wears you must replace the rod.

If you are replacing the track rod, it usually makes sense to replace the track rod end at the same time.

Reply to
Stewart Hargrav

Your car has solid lifters. Any products that claim to quiet lifters are for hydraulic lifters only. If you have lifter noise, the valve clearances can be adjusted with shims. Most commonly, what is thought to be lifter noise is leaking exhaust manifold gaskets. Does the noise get worse as engine load increases?

Reply to
Mike F

Under the buckets, on top of the valve stems, is a little rubber doughnut (on top of the collets - I don't mean the oil seals). I've always assumed that these were an attempt to quieten the valve noise. But they don't seem to do a particulartly good job, they harden up with age, and can make measuring the valve clearence a bit arbitrary.

Reply to
Stewart Hargrav

Yeah, I'm not sure what they're for, some call them oil seals, some say they're to reduce tappet noise. I know that I've taken engines apart that weren't burning oil or making noise that had those seals hard as a rock and cracked, so they really don't seem to be that necessary. Of course I'd never put a cylinder head back together without putting new ones in...

Reply to
Mike F

Hi I have a 1990 740 turbo sinister black .164 klm on it now approx 100.000 miles .Using synthetic oil in the tranny (auto)SYNTHETIC OIL in the engine ,it goes well very well with the wick turned up (the waste gate) it flies .Upgraded the lights still 55 watts but plus 30 on high and plus 50 percent better on low they cope well .other than that use the best fuel you can and colder plugs .Where else can you get a car that's safe fast if need be and I am getting 31 mpg on a trip but I do stick to the speed limits .The parts are cheap if you check out your local Volvo club rather than pay for the name Volvo .

Reply to
John Robertson

DRAIN THE OIL NEW FILTER VOLVO ,put normal quality oil in run it rev it and drain at 2000 miles then put in genuine synthetic another Volvo filter run it and enjoy the difference well run a fuel cleaner after you clean the throttle body .New plugs I use NGK .don't be afraid to rev it out a bit when its warm Volvos love it .We have two an 88 Turbo + 90 Turbo THEY BOTH run very well 230k and 168k.ENJOY

Reply to
John Robertson

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