Hard start

Possibly a flooded engine due to a cold start valve working but the battery too low to crank engine fast enough to start engine.

Like Jim said...........maybe a bad battery. I like Delco batteries, but those WalMart batteries seem to be good too! Stay away from those leaking Sears and Interstate batteries. They will crank well but just leak acid out destroying nearby wiring and metal. :-(

JMHO

Have to find the AutoZone receipt for the current battery. The previous battery was same one from AutoZone, lasted almost 6 years.

Also should mention that one of the 2 hot wires that has each its own connection to the battery via a separate bolt to the battery terminal, had its insulation non-existent for about 2", wire there was frayed and some missing. I shortened same cable cutting off missing insulation area, replace the plastic press connector with an all-copper version.

I remember replacing the battery shortly after I got this car in 92. Got it from a local parts store. While traversing a rough residential road, had an electrical fire under the hood. Hood damaged above the battery. Battery was too tall for the compartment.

Although my multimeter is not calibrated, if reasonably accurate, believe you're correct. Had to jumper the battery, as it would barely turn over engine.

Ordinary wheel bearing grease works fine as a battery cable topping.

After storing this vehicle up to a year at time numerous times while overseas (negative cable disconnected), engine turned over fine after returning home.

Others have stated the obvious-and-likely. I would only add the following two wrinkles:

a) A VOM does not load the source such that you are getting any indication of "current" at that 14V. You may have a bad alternator that is putting out the 'correct' voltage but not enough current to put a charge on the battery. If you have an external charger with a gauge, you can check this and also see if the battery holds a charge this way. In any case, do check the charging circuit anyway if you have to replace the battery.

b) If even a "new" standard starting battery is deep-cycled more than a very few times, it will be seriously damaged such that it may fail prematurely. Typical results of such abuse would be one cell going bad. Each cell is good for a nominal 2.1V so 6 x 2.1 =3D 12.6. Anything less indicates (at least) one bad cell.

Just a couple of random thoughts.

Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA

Others have stated the obvious-and-likely. I would only add the following two wrinkles:

a) A VOM does not load the source such that you are getting any indication of "current" at that 14V. You may have a bad alternator that is putting out the 'correct' voltage but not enough current to put a charge on the battery. If you have an external charger with a gauge, you can check this and also see if the battery holds a charge this way. In any case, do check the charging circuit anyway if you have to replace the battery.

b) If even a "new" standard starting battery is deep-cycled more than a very few times, it will be seriously damaged such that it may fail prematurely. Typical results of such abuse would be one cell going bad. Each cell is good for a nominal 2.1V so 6 x 2.1 = 12.6. Anything less indicates (at least) one bad cell.

Just a couple of random thoughts.

Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA

--------------------------

Being real cautious about what to replace. The VW started fine this morning. Drove to both jobs today. Last one, drove home with headlights running. I did smell a bit of gasoline after the last start before going home. Was a bit cool this evening. So, there's something else going on regarding air temp and gasoline. Its supposed to be in mid-30s in the a.m. tomorrow. See if it acts up again. Dave

If you are going to draw inferences from these voltages, you need finer voltage measurements. 12.5 after the car is off for a while does not indicate a problem battery. If you are not measuring to a decimal place, then that might read 12 or 13.

If you measure while cranking, the voltage could be considerably less without causing a problem. I am not sure where I would draw the line. If you measure while cranking, 6 volts would be bad and 10 volts would be sufficient.

That should be about 12.5 V with the engine off.

The fuel smell is a possible indication of flooding.

I would suspect any and all temperature sensors. Do you have a repair manual? I suggest getting one and check out the temperature sensors.

You also may want to buy a spare spark plug and next time it fails to start pull on plug wire put new plug in and hold the threads tightly against the engine block. Did you get a nice bright blue spark? If not you may have a spark problem. Did you feel a very strong ZAP and end up on the ground?. If so you failed to hold that plug with something very well insulated.

Started fine yesterday morning (next morning from above post). Low 30s air temp. My gut says that using jumper cables from my pickup for 10 minutes prior to attempting to start the VW is in play for now. Gave the battery some deep charge.

Brief gasoline smell remains at start time. No visible leaks anywhere. Dave

The coolant temp sensor was replaced. Cured a rough runnning engine that belched black smoke and ran very roughly at initial start.

Thermo-time switch seems to be doing its job normally. This is connected to the opposite side of the coolant port where the coolant temp sensor is mounted. There is no resistance check on it, unlike the coolant temp sensor.

I've been referring to the Bentley manual for all checks.

The coil and plugs were replaced early on when the VW was running rich at start time, prior to changing the coolant temp sensor. The oxygen sensor was replaced as well. This is a CIS-E engine, not a Digifant I or II engine.

I don't know your model, but I seem to recall that some models have more than one coolant sensor, or maybe that is on TDI's only.