How reliable is a '99 GTI VR6 ?

These are very reliable cars and should go to 200,000 miles OK, especially if you have a carfax. The windows had a problem on some of them but if they have been fixed properly by the dealer then you should have no problem in the future. Always change the oil every 5,000 miles and keep the engine tuned up properly.

They are asking $10,000 for a 6 year old car? That is a lot of money and may or may not be a fair price. I don't know, but at the very least you should do a cost comparison. Try Edmunds (do a Google search for their website). They provide such info, and it is quite detailed, including average prices based on the condition of the car.

No it just sounds like it was flipped to make a profit. Depending on its condition 10000 isn't all that bad but you are going to be looking at a few things before it hits 100000. The trade price should be around 7K and retail is 10K so you have a HUGE negociating margin. If its clean, no interior and exterior wear - shouldn't at 60K and the glass is good, negociate up not down - start low then see if they bite. Remember if its a dealer they are paying every day it sits on the lot - they want to get RID of it ASAP and they also have incomming new cars. If it private they are going to expect above dealer trade which will NOT be the 7K that is listed in the books. The dealer will most likely give around 6K or less - dealers do not want used cars on their lots since they are having a hard time selling now. So if you have cash in hand and its either a private seller or dealer you are in the driver's seat.

1. The CV joints may go and unless you are mechanically inclined they will be expensive
2. The belt tensioner is prone to failure - not expensive to do on your own but if it fails it will be
3. The coilpacks on VR6's are prone to failure - expect to pay at least 250 for a new one - DIY
4. Even with the power window regulator recall - they will fail after 2 years - the design hasn't changed and the cables do sheer off and fray - you can go aftermarket for 45 dollars - just installed one and it isn't any different than the OEM VW part for 120 discounted.

NADA, Edmunds, Kelly are NOT an accurate place to check for prices. Try going to a dealer and get the wholesale price - they won't even come close now. There is a glut of used cars on the lots and they are dying to get rid of them. I recently tried to trade a Mercedes CLK430 (2001) that has 20K and the car is flawless, new tire paint doesn't even have a chip or swirls - they offered way below wholesale book - even with the purchase of a new car. Same story for my neighbor - said the dealer offered a price so low for his car he had to walk away. Advertised in the paper for several weeks, no bites and the price was not unreasonable.

Understand that all "book values" (and especially the "ranges" between the wholesale and retail prices!) are published to benefit the used car dealers association, not the consumer.

Dealer love to make customers feel good when they offer slightly over the "wholesale book" price for your car and sell them for slightly under the "retail book" price. This is very common dealer practice using this "book" pricing to their advantage. Most consumers never give this a thought.

Bottom Line: Use book prices as a guide, but always keep the above in mind as well.

As I stated, "The very least I would do ...". Edmunds may not be the most accurate way to determine a fair price, but it is a VERY good starting point and as a guideline.

you don't buy a VW because of they are the most reliable cars -- they are not. You buy them, because of they are fun to drive, have a lot of torque at low RPM, which means higher amount of available power compared to japanese cars with the same hp or even more and they are designed for high speeds. My brother just sold his 1997 Seat Ibiza Gti (same engine as the 1997 golf GTI ) with nearly 125KMil on the odometer.

my mistake -- this was a 1993 Seat Ibiza Gti

Be careful. That sounds fishy to me. If they are not local, avoid them. Good luck.