1987 S10 rear brakeline replacement question

if the line is leaking, cut it off at the fittings and use a 6-point socket on a small impact to remove it

then put the new line on..............

What I would reccomend if its an old work truck is just unloosen then line at the master cylinder and put a finishing nail in it and put the line back on, that will stop it from leaking.

you're a looney, you know that ?

Small amount of HEAT !

Gary.... you're being way too kind to the dumb ass. Bob

Thanks, that sounds like a good idea, I sprayed it w/ WD 40 in hopes it will loosen. My friend says this other product called PB (something) is better.

Do I need to bleed all 4 brakes after.

Thanks for your help

Kevin

you all think I'm crazy or somthing, as long as the front brake lines are in good shape you will never really notice, unless your pulling a large trailor, I've had several cars I've done that to, partly because the repair would cost more then the car was worth.

you're an asshole who endangers other drivers to save a buck

and that's being mild...................

yeah ok, and when ur out on the road in the middle of no place with kids and no phone you have to do somthing dude, I saved a buck sure, but I saved my kids from getting dehydrated and sick from the heat, and I got all of us back into town to a repair shop. Then we all went home safe and healthy, its not like I would do somthing like that for the life of the vehicle or anything.

quit trying to spin it into an 'emergency situation'

I quote YOU:

now, do you want to quit while you're only on your ass, or should I pound you into the dirt ?

PB Blaster, and yes, it will help loosen it. WD-40 doesn't come close to it. The only product I know that is better than PB Blaster is Yield by Chem-Search(?)

Big Chris

Kev> Thanks, that sounds like a good idea,

Kevin, Wipe all the crud off the line and use a propane torch to heat it a bit. Then use a flare nut wrench to remove the line. On the other end it will make a difference if the wheel cylinder is in good shape or real rusted. If rusted just break the line off and replace the wheel cylinder. Easier than trying to break the line and the bleeder free. Check the other side as well if it shows rust replace it as well. When you get them installed wipe them clean with some paint thinner and spray a light coat of paint on them to slow down the rust. Factory lines have a coating that they don't put on U-bend-M type replacements.

As for bleeding it depends on IF the master cylinder went dry AND when was the last time it was done? Myself I would flush and bleed the entire system. Better and safer that way.

Hi!

I have PB Blaster and like it, but another product that seems to work well is Kano Labs' Aerokroil. It doesn't work quite as quickly, but it has loosened a few things that PB Blaster didn't.

WD-40 has always been great for reviving grease in so-called permanently lubricated fan motors...fixed many a window air conditioner's fan motor with it...

William

now there's a name I haven't heard since the late 60's.....Kano Kroil

I thought it was long gone

We auto Tech's of the 1950, /60's Didnot Have wd-40.

for Rusted lines or Nuts we Applied BRAKE FLUID . Fuel OIL, Or we just HEATED the frozen line or NUT

Nope, Kroil's still around.. Seafoam Deep Creep works pretty well too.

-Bret