1987 S10 rear brakeline replacement question

Looking under the rear of my Chevy 4X4 S10 Sunday I noticed a leak in the bake line that goes to the passenger side rear wheel.

I tried to loosen the bolts pictured here:

formatting link
with a open end wrench but stopped thinking I would strip them. Did not even attempt to loosen the bleeder...

but,..

The leak is located center of a line that goes rear truck center to the passenger side rear wheel. This is a line about 40" long.

What is the best way to go about getting these loosened.

Also,... do I have to bleed all 4 brakes after removing this faulty line, (which does not look that old). The leak is at a clip on the side of the axle.

Any type of solution that might aid in getting these loose?

Thanks

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Duggan
Loading thread data ...

if the line is leaking, cut it off at the fittings and use a 6-point socket on a small impact to remove it

then put the new line on..............

Reply to
TranSurgeon

What I would reccomend if its an old work truck is just unloosen then line at the master cylinder and put a finishing nail in it and put the line back on, that will stop it from leaking.

Reply to
Adam Frazier

you're a looney, you know that ?

Reply to
TranSurgeon

Small amount of HEAT !

Reply to
no one

Gary.... you're being way too kind to the dumb ass. Bob

Reply to
Bob

Thanks, that sounds like a good idea, I sprayed it w/ WD 40 in hopes it will loosen. My friend says this other product called PB (something) is better.

Do I need to bleed all 4 brakes after.

Thanks for your help

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Duggan

you all think I'm crazy or somthing, as long as the front brake lines are in good shape you will never really notice, unless your pulling a large trailor, I've had several cars I've done that to, partly because the repair would cost more then the car was worth.

Reply to
Adam Frazier

you're an asshole who endangers other drivers to save a buck

and that's being mild...................

Reply to
TranSurgeon

yeah ok, and when ur out on the road in the middle of no place with kids and no phone you have to do somthing dude, I saved a buck sure, but I saved my kids from getting dehydrated and sick from the heat, and I got all of us back into town to a repair shop. Then we all went home safe and healthy, its not like I would do somthing like that for the life of the vehicle or anything.

Reply to
Adam Frazier

quit trying to spin it into an 'emergency situation'

I quote YOU:

now, do you want to quit while you're only on your ass, or should I pound you into the dirt ?

Reply to
TranSurgeon

PB Blaster, and yes, it will help loosen it. WD-40 doesn't come close to it. The only product I know that is better than PB Blaster is Yield by Chem-Search(?)

Big Chris

Kev> Thanks, that sounds like a good idea,

Reply to
Big Chris

Kevin, Wipe all the crud off the line and use a propane torch to heat it a bit. Then use a flare nut wrench to remove the line. On the other end it will make a difference if the wheel cylinder is in good shape or real rusted. If rusted just break the line off and replace the wheel cylinder. Easier than trying to break the line and the bleeder free. Check the other side as well if it shows rust replace it as well. When you get them installed wipe them clean with some paint thinner and spray a light coat of paint on them to slow down the rust. Factory lines have a coating that they don't put on U-bend-M type replacements.

As for bleeding it depends on IF the master cylinder went dry AND when was the last time it was done? Myself I would flush and bleed the entire system. Better and safer that way.

Reply to
Steve W.

Hi!

I have PB Blaster and like it, but another product that seems to work well is Kano Labs' Aerokroil. It doesn't work quite as quickly, but it has loosened a few things that PB Blaster didn't.

WD-40 has always been great for reviving grease in so-called permanently lubricated fan motors...fixed many a window air conditioner's fan motor with it...

William

Reply to
William R. Walsh

Hi!

Uhm...don't screw around with your brakes. If they don't work right, find out why and FIX THEM. Your vehicle might not be worth it, but what's your life worth to you? If nothing else, get a different vehicle.

For the longest time my '84 Sierra had no back brakes. Then one day it had no front brakes. Thank heaven the emergency brake stopped it and that nobody else was around the truck...otherwise I'd probably have been in a wreck. Now the brakes are getting fixed...and while that truck is probably not worth it, my life IS.

William The Guesser

Reply to
William R. Walsh

now there's a name I haven't heard since the late 60's.....Kano Kroil

I thought it was long gone

Reply to
TranSurgeon

Hi!

Nope.

formatting link
My uncle gave me several cans of it...I still have at least a few.

William The Guesser (since 1982)

Reply to
William R. Walsh

We auto Tech's of the 1950, /60's Didnot Have wd-40.

for Rusted lines or Nuts we Applied BRAKE FLUID . Fuel OIL, Or we just HEATED the frozen line or NUT

Reply to
no one

Nope, Kroil's still around.. Seafoam Deep Creep works pretty well too.

-Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

formatting link

Reply to
Hairy

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.