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diesel pump problems

hi group, I'm talking about a '98 silverado z71 ext cab 6.5 diesel. the motor developed the nasty habit of stalling during the first, say ten minutes of driving after a cold start. this happens rather irregularly but seems to be more probable in damp weather. I'm situated in austria, europe, where chevy dealers & repair shops are scarce and charge pharmacists prices. Anyway, the guy at the rep shop said, no problem, just a magnetic valve on the injection pump, the pump has to be taken out and sent to the Netherlands (he said nobody here in austria could handle this!!!???), duration 2-3 weeks, cost minimum euro 2.000,- (add 15% for real bucks). Question is, do I get screwed here? Any alternatives?

Thx for input walter

Reply to
Walter Marchart
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might be cheaper to buy the bit online from a company in the US, then have it airfrieghted out and installed.

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rhys

Reply to
rnf2

These Standyne pumps are the nemesis of this otherwise good engine. They go bad all the time, my '97 went at 25,000mi. They have an improved design starting in '99. Anyhow, if your truck has less than 100,000mi (160,900km), it should be covered under warrenty if they offer the same warrenty over there. The diesel engines are covered up to 100,000mi or

10 years here, transferable and no questions asked. It may be cheaper to find that chevy dealer and drive there, it's about a 5 hour job for an expienced diesel mechanic, but only the cost of time and gas for you. If it's not under warrenty, I would buy one from over here (US) and put it in yourself for have a shop over there put it in.You'll need an upper gasket kit as well, as the intake manifold needs to come off to get to the pump. The pumps sell here for about $250-$350US from reputible shops, and on eBay for a bit less, but watch what your buying there.

Ken

Walter Marchart wrote:

Reply to
73blazer

From what I have learned this symptom sounds like the FSD or PMD (same part, different names). This is the little black box on the side of your injection pump. They're in a bad place for an electronic part, which doesn't like heat. Before you go dumping a bunch of money into an injection pump, find out if this Fuel Solenoid Driver (Pump Mounted Driver) is bad. Get a relocation kit with your new driver and you're looking at a 15-30 minute job and nothing to disassemble except taking off your cover from the top of your motor.

Check to be sure your lift pump is working properly, too. To do this, you turn on the engine, open the bleeder valve and let a stream of fuel come out a while. If the truck dies, then the lift pump is bad. If not, then you're probably ok.

Another way to test the pump is to open your fuse block on the driver side inner fender and jump across the two correct terminals. If you need to know which ones, let me know and I will check mine because it's been a while since I have tested mine.

You want to be sure you have good fuel pressure. If not, this, too can be a symptom of a lift pump failure.

Check out

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for some real good info. I'd spend some time looking into this before I shelled out the kind of cash you're looking at for an inj. pump.

Reply to
Snowman

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