K5Blazer and anyone else

What do you think the best way to design a link suspension on my '49 GMC panel truck? I was thinking of running a single bar(per side) for the bottom and running an a-frame design for the top. Total pivot points would be 7 for each end of the truck. It would do away with running a panard bar, right? I would use rod ends for articulation. Not the type of articulation needed for extreme rocks though. I am building it as a very functional, usable, radical, street legal, monster truck.

Reply to
Shades
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You will still have to run a pan hard bar you have nothing to keep your axle from going side to side. Make sure you keep the pan hard bar level with your axle or you will get bump steer. You can get heims joints at your local tractor supply store cheap for three point hitch for tractors heavy duty and work good. The aframe and bars going down work good you can run your bar back to the frame on the truck back or to a cross member in the center of the truck to give more clearance.

Reply to
K5 Blazer

When I say a-frame, I mean the top link or the suspension will mount at two points on the axle housing and one point on the chassis. Then the two links(one per side) will run from the rear end to the chassis. Essentially it will be like taking a 4-link suspension and moving the top two chassis links together. The axle shouldn't have any side play should it? I have seen a similar set-up on drag cars with ladder-bar suspension. No panhard bar on them. Its called a 'Wishbone Track Locator'.

Reply to
Shades

What your are talking about is a 3 link set up. So i am under standing you right are you running coil over or leaf springs If your running leafs then your ok but if your running coil over then you must have a pan hard bar to keep the axle from going side to side. What axles- gears and tires are you planing on running

Reply to
K5 Blazer

That wish bone set up you are talking about just won't take the side load . On a race car is one thing they are not made to have a lot of travel like you want for your truck. Its a good ideal but they don't work on trucks unless your talking something real low and made to go in straight line. When I first see one it look like a hot set up a race car and a big 4x4 is two different animals

Reply to
K5 Blazer

Ok, now I get what your sayin...

Reply to
Shades

I will be running coils. So I will have to go with a panhard rod...Bummer I am not sure what I am gonna run. I was thinking about 2 1/2T Rockwell's but I don't want the weight and design. I want to run a standard axle design(front input) but want some real strength. I would prefer to use a mass production axle for parts availability. I want to run 44's. Not the largest tire on the market, but then again my GMC aint gonna be the largest truck on the planet. I'm thinking Ramjet 502 with some tweaking as a powerplant and a beefy TH400 with an NP205. I want to keep this thing half way streetable so I can scare all the folks in the surrounding towns. But build it radical enough to scare me!

"K5 Blazer" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@storefull-2213.public.lawson.webtv.net...

Reply to
Shades

Shades,

check out Marmot-Herrington (M-H) axles, they're exclusively 1ton and up axles used in the front ends of AWD front dump cement trucks, fire trucks, etc. using an M-H won't leave you stuck with just one gear ratio like a rockwell 2.5T will.

check out

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-Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

SWEEEEEEEEEEET!!!

The MT-10 might be exactly what I need!!! Thanx Bret!

Reply to
Shades

you're welcome... I've always wondered why nobody's running them (or nobody that gets in a mag)... used deuce and a halfs are easier to come by than fire trucks, I guess.

-Bret

Reply to
Bret Chase

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