I have an 1988 GMC Jimmy 2.8l and the water pump went out on it. I really
dont even recall ever having to replace the water pump in this. I was
worried about the removing the bolts but all them came out easy except for
one of the bigger bolts. A bolt next to it was a little difficult to losen.
It did have a little corrosion on it. So I suspect thats whats wrong with
this bigger one. The head ended up stripping out trying with a lot of force
to get it to break free (It was a T50 size). So I then just cut the head off
to remove the old pump. I have sprayed a lot of WD40 up in the threads and
let it soak for a couple days. The remaining bolt stud just refuses to budge
any. The only way I can grip it hard enough is with a pipe wrench. But the
bolt stud finally gives by the wrench cutting in.
So I can only think of two options left for me.
1. Install the new pump and gasket and hope it does not leak around this
area where it will be missing a bolt.
2. Install the new pump and attempt to tap a smaller hole and insert a small
bolt in the stud of what remains of this old bolt.
How does this sound? Any other ideas out there?
I hope this can last at least another 6 months or so as its my sons and he
just got a good job so he can get him another car.
#1` is a bad move- it WILL leak.
#2 not a great move, either.
way I usually solve this problem is <assuming you have the old WP off
alrady and are just fighting the remains of the rusted-in stud> weld a
nut to the broken off stud. It may help to cut the stud down some so
that when you do this the heat of welding gets in there and helps
loosen the rust. Spray the affected bolt liberally with PB Blaster <no
substitution here>. Tap it and take a break for a few hours, or
preferably come back the nerxt day. Give the PB time to work it's
magic. Do this a few times- most likely you will find the bolt loosens
up enough that it will come out as easily as the others. If not-
well...then take a breaker bar and with increasing pressure try to
TIGHTEN the bolt just a bit. Then loosen till it tightens up a bit.
Lather, rinse repeat. You're basically using the bolt as a tap. Once
it's out, chase the threads and use antiseize on the new stud.
If arm power doesn't work-- get out the impact wrench. Proceed as
above-- starting at the lowest torque setting and proceeding up.
Have never had a botl not come out in short order with this method. I
suppose worst case it will sheer off at the block, in which case you
really have no choice but to proceed as #2 above, though I'd try an EZ
PB Blaster is THE BEST rust penetrant around, bar none. A friend had
Pep Boys service <read: mangle> his AC lines. The monkey they put on
the task broke one of the lines because of misuse of tools and the fact
the lines were galvanically bonded. In fixing the lines <and saving my
buddy $600> I had him do the PB Blaster soak for 3 days <we'd tried to
use wrenches <properly this time> and couldn't budge them>. On day
three when he tapped the fitting it moved. He then removed it with his
It's nothing less than awesome stuff. Get it at Advance Auto Parts.
Good luck with it!
Give it a couple days and I honestly doubt you'll even have to do the
Check out the bolt extractors at Advance, too-- they're much the same
as the Sears Craftsman product-- no drilling involved, it actually
bites into the steel. I've had good luck with them.
First I'd try two nuts on the stud-- wrenched together as a jamnut,
then use the inner one to try to back the stud out after a liberal
couple days' does of PB.
Before you exert any force with the bolt/stud extractors,
grab a propane torch and quickly blast the area immediately
AROUND the broken bolt for about 30 to 45 seconds (DO NOT
HEAT THE BOLT DIRECTLY). Then give it a yank (when metal is
heated, it expands, and so do the holes). Good luck! Good
advice from burntkat!
Thanks Franko and burntkat! I finally got the bolt out! I did it by spraying
around it with the PB Blaster (it doesnt really look like it made it down
the bolt) and the Bolt removers from Sears and heating around it. Boy, those
bolt removers from Sears really bite in to the stud good! Now if I can just
get this off the old stud!
Now I am just looking for a replacement bolt (M10 1.50 x75). I checked 3
different auto places and they just have up to 40 length. I checked Lowes
and they had a hex head the correct size but I am not sure it will work in
this high temp application. Anyone else knows if these are ok to use in an
engine. I have a friend checking at the auto place he works at. I may have
to make a visit to a salvage yard as well.
Excellent! Glad to hear it. Your best bet may be the
salvage yard for the replacement bolt if you don't want to
go to the dealer. Don't forget to use anti-seize and/or
thread sealant as appropriate.
As to getting the broken stud out of the bolt/stud remover,
clamp the stud in a bench vise (better than a vise-grip)
because that sucker is really TIGHT.
Just an FYI, had the PB Blaster and propane torch not
worked, the next step would have been: use an oxy-acetylene
torch to really heat the bolt, wait a half a minute or so,
then touch/rub a candle onto the hot stud -- the melted wax
will wick into the threads and should allow you to remove
I just bought some Grade 8 <well metric equiv> hex-head M10X1.5 bolts
yesterday. No problem at all. I've used their hardware in many
applcations from holding the pulley to my WP when I deleted the mech
fan to mounting my winch to my jeep, with no problems.
BTW- to make things easier-- 75mm is close enough to 3" for government
work. I should know. ;)
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