How does a torque wrench work?

You always wanted to know, didn't you? I know I did.

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Reply to
Tegger
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So now you have two working torque wrenches, eh?

JT

Reply to
Grumpy AuContraire

Doesn't the craftsman guarantee apply to torque wrenches? I was under the impression that it applied to every craftsman hand tool, and therefore, your replacement should have been free...

Otherwise, cool information!

Reply to
Joe LaVigne

I made a lot of half-assed attempts to setup a cheap calibration checker for my torque wrench using a gallon of water for a weight and a measured lever arm, attached to a bolt that i could stick in a socket attached to the wrench, pivoted relatively freely on something, so I could see with a given torque load, at what setting the wrench started with the click. Never got it working, though. But doesn't it seem like something you could do at home easily, if you were less of a klutz than I?

Reply to
z

z wrote in news:1184877067.710654.26610 @w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

That's an interesting idea (I mean making the comparison, not you being a klutz).

I had a bit of a think about it, and it really seems quite simple: Immobilize one wrench in such a way as not to interfere with its action, then hook another one up to it via the usual square drive.

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Each wrench has a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, then a 10mm socket, then a section of 10mmm Allen rod connects the two.

I've barely got the click one clamped in, just tight enough to keep it from falling through the vise. A quick measurement with a micrometer shows no apparent distortion of the tube. Then I placed my hand on the square drive end of the beam-type, just like you would if tightening a bolt with extensions on the torque wrench.

Remember that the click-type's mechanism is internal to the tube. So long as I do not interfere with the head's pivot pin or the tilt mechanism inside, the readings should be unaffected by the vise.

I had the click-type set to only 30 ft lbs, so as to minimize any malevolent forces should something slip.

The click-type wrench clicked as the beam type approached 30 lbs, but it always clicked a couple of pounds short of 30 on the beam's reading. Tolerance on the click-type is given as 4% up or down, so theoretically a reading of 30 could actually mean anywhere between 28.8 to 31.2. And heaven only knows what the tolerance is on my 35 year-old beam-type.

Reply to
Tegger

z wrote in news:1184877067.710654.26610 @w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

Huh. I sent a reply a couple of hours ago but it foes not seem to have shown up anywhere. Here it is again:

That's an interesting idea (I mean making the comparison, not you being a klutz).

I had a bit of a think about it, and it really seems quite simple: Immobilize one wrench in such a way as not to interfere with its action, then hook another one up to it via the usual square drive.

formatting link
Each wrench has a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, then a 10mm socket, then a section of 10mmm Allen rod connects the two.

I've barely got the click one clamped in, just tight enough to keep it from falling through the vise. A quick measurement with a micrometer shows no apparent distortion of the tube. Then I placed my hand on the square drive end of the beam-type, just like you would if tightening a bolt with extensions on the torque wrench.

Remember that the click-type's mechanism is internal to the tube. So long as I do not interfere with the head's pivot pin or the tilt mechanism inside, the readings should be unaffected by the vise.

I had the click-type set to only 30 ft lbs, so as to minimize any malevolent forces should something slip.

The click-type wrench clicked as the beam type approached 30 lbs, but it always clicked a couple of pounds short of 30 on the beam's reading. Tolerance on the click-type is given as 4% up or down, so theoretically a reading of 30 could actually mean anywhere between 28.8 to 31.2. And heaven only knows what the tolerance is on my 35 year-old beam-type.

Reply to
Tegger

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