Starts then quits then Starts??

" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@r34g2000hsd.googlegroups.com:

Ignition switch?

What you describe is usually the Main Relay, which you say you replaced. Was the replacement a new one or one from a wreck?

Tegger wrote in news:Xns99A48CF29B514tegger@207.14.116.130:

it would not surprise me to find a new relay having bad solder joints.

Jim Yanik wrote in news:Xns99A4D2A354C03jyanikkuanet@64.209.0.86:

I doubt that. Honda is not in the habit of allowing defective goods into its parts stream.

Main Relays go bad through heat cycling and vibration.

Tegger wrote in news:Xns99A4D3E55A684tegger@207.14.116.130:

solder can crystallize over time.If a relay has been sitting in stock for a long time,it's solder joints could be crystallized,ready to crack under stress or thermal cycling.(tin migrates,grows whiskers,too.)

innews: snipped-for-privacy@r34g2000hsd.googlegroups.com:

I have not looked at that. Great idea. The Main Relay was new.

Before I changed the main relay the car would not fire at all. It is firing now, but then cuts off. I have a RPM spike now, when before the relay I had nothing.

I think the ignition switch is a great recommendation.

Is there a way to test the ignition switch?

Jim Yanik wrote in news:Xns99A4E9A64BB8Djyanikkuanet@64.209.0.85:

Didn't know that.

There's a thread (ha ha) in sci.materials on just that.

" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

If you can turn the switch ever so slowly and find a "sweet spot" where problems occcur, then the switch may be bad.

See here for more details:

" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

put a voltmeter on the wire from the "operate" position that supplies