If its a 1.8/1.8T you'd be looking at around £450+VAT at the dealer - maybe
If you are in the South east (of the UK), www.wheelbase.uk.com will do it
for a bit less and give a good service.
DIY will cost you around £225 in parts for the belt, tensioner, pulley and
idler pulley and then the AC Belt, the Serpantine belt and the PAS/Waterpump
belt - you'd be mad not to change the 3 V belts while you were in there. Its
a long job but not especially difficult - you have to pull the front of the
I don't know - can't imagine it would be significantly less. Suggest you
riung the nearest VW dealer & ask - they usually have "menu" pricing for
cambelts & should just be able to give you a figure. Make sure that it
includes changing the tensioners & rollers & also ask about the external
drive belts as well - might as well do 'em all while they are in there.
Mine: 2000 / a4 / 1.8T
Back when I was a Mitsubishi eclipse gsx (AWD) owner, and this car was
notorious for dead timing belts at 100 feet past 60,000 miles, I asked a
former member of mitsubishi racing about the extra replacements that go
along with changing a timing belt on the eclipse.
He told me that replacing the water pump and tensioners was always overkill
in cars----and that it was usually a money-scam to make more money for the
dealerships and that he never does it.
Perhaps this is easy to say if you actually belong to mitsubishi and all
"your" cars are mitsubishi's, but do any of you find this to be true.
These costs are not insignificant once you start adding in *all* these
"just-in-case"'s. It really seems to get out of hand. The local guy is
demanding $1000 for my a4 TB replacement (new tensioner, water pump, few
When I bought my '87 5ktq, the guy I bought it from had just had the clutch
replaced. A year after I bought it, a whining/hum began which I traced to a
leaking rear crank seal. A replacement seal cost me all of about $10, but
pulling the tranny and clutch to get at the seal to replace it would cost me
From what I read here, and what I hear from other folks who work on cars,
it's often the bearings in the waterpump and tensioner that fail and take
out the belt. Once the mechanic has the old belt off, it's best to replace
those things while they're in there. Chances are, if you replace the other
things they would have lasted another 60k miles, if you don't, they'll fail
before the next belt change ;-) If they fail (and you catch them), the best
case is that it costs you _WAY_ more than it would have had you had it done
while the belt was being done.
BTW, mechanics on a race team are no more experts on the longevity of parts
than regular mechanics - maybe even less so - engines and subjected to hell
for a race or a few, and then rebuilt or replaced. Very seldom do race
engines drive the car for 60k miles without major work or replacement.
Yep, $1000 is alot of money - but so is an engine replacement.
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply) .......blarphoogy
wrote in message
The problem with not replacing the water pump is that there is a high
probablility that it will fail before the TB gets replaced again. My last
Audi's water pump went at about 85,000 miles so I think it makes good sense
to replace it along with the TB. I don't know about later models but I
believe there was an improved tensioner design after my A4 was built in
1998. In fact I understand that tensioner failuire may be a causitive factor
in the "failure" of TB's on some A4s.
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