short listing follows
1. Unfasten front stabiliser bar both sides
2. Unbolt Drive shaft nut (car standing on road) you need Long bar, due to
high torque. Unfasten wheel bolts.
3. Jack up car, remove wheel and unfasten steering ball joint (buy a
puller to dislocate cone)
4. Remove caliper complete with brake pads, use string to tie up caliper
to avoid strain on brake hose.
5. Remove lock/tension bolt for lower ball joint and lever Strut and coil
spring assembly out of lower wish bone arm
6. Unfasten nut on top of stru/coil spring assy
7. Remove Strut and coil spring assembly from car
8. Remove brake disc
9. Use puller/ or brute force to hammer out to the hub, outer half of
inner bearing will follow hub, and needs to be pulled off hub afterwards.
10. Remove the locking rings on both sides of wheel bearing
11. Put strut in wise and hammer out bearing
12. Clean bearing seating area
13. Use old bearing outer ring as distance piece when forceing new bearing
into seating from inside out. Dont force to far, so that you are able to
fit the new securing rings on both sides
14. Clean outside of hub and tap gently into bearing while resting edge of
inner side of bearing on firm surface
15. Mount strut and fasten nut on top
16. Fit driveshaft end trough hub and fasten nut (do not torque while car
is standing on jack)
17. Mount lower ball joint and steering ball joint
18. Mount brake disc and caliper/ pads; fit wheel
19. Lower car and remove jack, fasten wheel and torque drive shaft nut, ca
19. Fasten stabiliser bar
Special tools needed:
puller to get inner bearing off wheel hub
steering ball joint puller
Use new nuts / bolts
Special bolt (10.9) for lower ball joint
You are welcome. Hope you succeed with the work.. :-)
Actually the Audi4000 (or 80 as its called in Europe) is quit easy to
Be sure to identify the correct bearing though, as it can be difficult to
hear where the sound come from from inside the car.
BTDT, ended up with changing wrong bearing and two CV joints before
finding the bad bearing..
What Ottar T said............and.......
You might be able to skip STEP #1. You might have to force the control arm
low enough to clear lower ball joint. I use a fat chisel to open up the gap
slightly in the strut housing to release ball joint.
You could take the bearing and strut housing assembly to an auto machine
shop to have them replace the bearing if you don't have a shop press and
don't want to beat the bearings in and out. Ask around to see what they
will charge you for the labor.
STEP #13 install one of the circlips to stop the bearing from going too far
when you press it in. Then don't forget to install the last circlip. lol
Most of the time one of the inner races stays stuck on the hub, STEP #9, and
you will need to grab it with a bearing separator like
and press it off the hub. It can also be cut off but you do risk damaging
the hub a little.
(If you rent a wheel bearing remover and installer you don't have to remove
the strut housing assembly. I have not used one of these tools yet.)
If you are not into DIY you should find a local independent Audi shop and expect
to pay about $250.
You could find the double race bearing on the net for $50 - $60 but installing
it requires either a special bearing tool ($$$) or removing the strut and
pressing the bearing.
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