wheel bearings

På Fri, 06 Jan 2006 16:59:09 +0100, skrev GR :

short listing follows

1. Unfasten front stabiliser bar both sides
2. Unbolt Drive shaft nut (car standing on road) you need Long bar, due to high torque. Unfasten wheel bolts.
3. Jack up car, remove wheel and unfasten steering ball joint (buy a puller to dislocate cone)
4. Remove caliper complete with brake pads, use string to tie up caliper to avoid strain on brake hose.
5. Remove lock/tension bolt for lower ball joint and lever Strut and coil spring assembly out of lower wish bone arm
6. Unfasten nut on top of stru/coil spring assy
7. Remove Strut and coil spring assembly from car

1. Remove brake disc

1. Use puller/ or brute force to hammer out to the hub, outer half of inner bearing will follow hub, and needs to be pulled off hub afterwards.
2. Remove the locking rings on both sides of wheel bearing
3. Put strut in wise and hammer out bearing
4. Clean bearing seating area
5. Use old bearing outer ring as distance piece when forceing new bearing into seating from inside out. Dont force to far, so that you are able to fit the new securing rings on both sides
6. Clean outside of hub and tap gently into bearing while resting edge of inner side of bearing on firm surface

1. Mount strut and fasten nut on top

1. Fit driveshaft end trough hub and fasten nut (do not torque while car is standing on jack)
2. Mount lower ball joint and steering ball joint
3. Mount brake disc and caliper/ pads; fit wheel
4. Lower car and remove jack, fasten wheel and torque drive shaft nut, ca

240Nm torque

1. Fasten stabiliser bar

done

Special tools needed: puller to get inner bearing off wheel hub steering ball joint puller

Use new nuts / bolts Special bolt (10.9) for lower ball joint

If you are not into DIY you should find a local independent Audi shop and expect to pay about $250.

You could f> I have a 86 audi 4000s and I need to replace the front wheel bearing badly,

På Sat, 07 Jan 2006 05:15:37 +0100, skrev GR :

You are welcome. Hope you succeed with the work.. :-) Actually the Audi4000 (or 80 as its called in Europe) is quit easy to service. Be sure to identify the correct bearing though, as it can be difficult to hear where the sound come from from inside the car. BTDT, ended up with changing wrong bearing and two CV joints before finding the bad bearing..

What Ottar T said............and....... You might be able to skip STEP #1. You might have to force the control arm low enough to clear lower ball joint. I use a fat chisel to open up the gap slightly in the strut housing to release ball joint.

You could take the bearing and strut housing assembly to an auto machine shop to have them replace the bearing if you don't have a shop press and don't want to beat the bearings in and out. Ask around to see what they will charge you for the labor.

STEP #13 install one of the circlips to stop the bearing from going too far when you press it in. Then don't forget to install the last circlip. lol

Most of the time one of the inner races stays stuck on the hub, STEP #9, and you will need to grab it with a bearing separator like

press it off the hub. It can also be cut off but you do risk damaging the hub a little.

OR.......... (If you rent a wheel bearing remover and installer you don't have to remove the strut housing assembly. I have not used one of these tools yet.)