'94 E34 525i SE.
Does anyone know the specific checking procedure for this model.
I understand the procedure involves checking the inlet air temperature,
against the ambient air temperature, but I have no idea what the
differential temperature should be. The a/c is working, but I feel it could,
or should, be cooler.
Bentley's is no help as it only deals with the mechanics of the a/c system.
Maybe I'm expecting too much, so I'd like to check it myself before spending
any money on having it checked by an a/c specialist.
On 7/3/2006 10:49 AM, Mike G went clickity-clack on the keyboard and
produced this interesting bit of text:
I don't know any mechanic that checks the AC capability by doing
anything other than sticking a thermometer into a vent and turning the
AC and fan on full. Mine gets pretty darn cold, about 36 degrees F.
There's no real magic to it. FWIW, I have a '94 E34 (530i). Yours
should be pretty much the same. If it's not blowing cold, then it may
be that you need the system recharged. If it's the first time it's been
recharged, then you don't need to worry about leaks, but if it has to be
recharged soon after, then you should get it checked out.
The top of the receiver/dryer unit has a little window on it. While the
AC is running, you should see bubbles in the window. If you don't, then
it's probably low on refrigerant and you'll have to take it in. I don't
think R134a is available in stores like Freon was.
Baseball is ninety percent mental and the other half is physical. - Yogi
Please check your procedure. Bubbles in the refrigerant means you're
possibly low. Allow the system to run for at least 10 minutes and check the
sight glass. If you see bubbles, add refrigerant until the bubbles just
disappear. A sight glass that looks empty most likely is full of
refrigerant. Otherwise the low pressure cutoff would have stopped the
compressor from self-destructing. If you don't hear the compressor cycling,
then most likely you're low of refrigerant.
As I said in my post. The a/c seems to be working properly.
But, as far as I can see, and Bentleys would appear to confirm it, the a/c
system in my car doesn't have a sightglass.
My Celica has one, so I know what to look for.
I know a thermometer in the outlet will show it's blowing cool air. I'm just
wondering if it's as cool as it should be. My feeling is that it should be
To be comfortable on a hot day, around 30C it has to be running at max.
OTOH, admitted the a/c in my Celica is an R12 system which in general are
more efficient, max on a hot day would give me goosebumps.
What gas did your E34 use?
AIUI, the changeover to R134a was around the early 90's.
Is the Rover running on R12, or one of the so-called compatible
refridgerants, or has it been converted to run on R134a?.
R12 is a more efficient gas than R134a, so that could explain the
What's the latest on your top-up kit BTW?
Might be something I'll consider using, if my system does prove to be down
I have noticed that my E30 (a few years older than your car)
converted to R134a runs about 25 degrees differential. When I press
the switch to recirculate, the differential increases to almost 40
degrees. I am in Florida and this time of year it's nice to look down
and see the thermometer that's hanging in the vent read around 45
when it's damn near 90 outside. BTW - All readings are in fahrenheit
for those that are wondering :)
Thanks. That's the sort of info I'm after.
90 F is about the temperature we have in the south of england at the mo.
Mine is a R134a system, but I very much doubt that I'm getting those sort of
It gives me a guide of what might be possible if it's as efficient as it
Good suggestion, but the microfilter was changed about 6 months ago, when
the car had a major service.
I saw the old one removed and replaced with a new one, so I know for certain
that it was changed.
Seems no shortage of air. Anything higher than a fan setting of 2, and it's
blowing a gale. :-)
I'll see what a thermometer says before taking it any further.
I believe that you've already checked that the aux electric cooling fan
is working. One thing you could do is to get a big box fan (36" or so)
and place it in front of the grill to see if that helps the heat transfer in
the condenser. A/C shops do this to ensure that they've got enough
airflow when testing the system's efficiency. In my BMWs, the air
coming out of the a/c vents is about 10 degrees F cooler when the
car is moving.
Oops!. Now I feel very foolish.
The aux fan isn't working, and never has worked, since I bought the car over
2 years ago. It's not siezed solid, but it can only be turned with
difficulty using a screwdriver through the grille.
Until you mentioned it, it had completely slipped my mind. But now you have,
it's the most likely explanation for the a/c not getting as cool as I think
One thing you could do is to get a big box fan (36" or so)
I picked up a good s/h fan last year, but hadn't fitted it, as it needed a
new resistor as well. Which I now have, so I've no excuse for delaying it's
fitment any longer.
Even without the fan, the a/c does work reasonably well. Hopefully after
fitting it, it will work even better.
Apologies if anyone thinks I've been wasting their time.
Fortunately for me, I'm not always that stupid.
If it's working properly and you'd like it colder, there is a product
called ICE-32 which will do that. It is basically a synthetic lubricant
for R-134a systems. You can install just like topping off refrigerant.
It results in an immediate temp drop of 6 to 10 degrees every time. I
have installed ICE-32 on a variety of vehicles, domestic and foreign,
with immediate results. It also will quiet down a noisy compressor if it
is not a failure noise.
They make a variant for R22 home A/C. It works also, raising the
heating temp (heat pump) last winter, and this summer the cooling temp
is about 4 degrees lower than before.
The only reason I haven't added it to my Z3 is it already freezes me
out. But I'll do it just for reasons of longevity.
Check it out. they have a website.
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