98 Blazer starting problems

171 is bank 1, 174 is bank 2

Using a lot of oil is NOT a good sign

If the O2 sensor reads too lean it will prompt the computer to richen the mixture - so a bad O2 sensor will cause the engine to run rich, while indicating lean.

This is a throttle body injected engine so it only has 2 injectors. If one is faulty and causing a problem they likely both are because both banks read lean. Most often bad injectors on these engines dribble, causing RICH mixtures.

More likely a bad FPR - the fuel pressure regulator is integral to the throttle body on this engine - and failures are not unusual.

Again, this will cause the sensor to read lean, which will cause the engine to run rich. It will also throw a 170/173 code because the mixture is not responding to lengthened injection pulse.

And you want to find out what the problem with the transmission is before spending a lot of time and money on the emissions. You also want to find out what the oil consumption problem is. You ARE going to spend more money on this vehicle than it is worth unless you have a good engine and transmission from your old vehicle and the ability to change them yourself. - or you can find a good used engine and transmission from a low mileage wreck for cheap.

Reply to
clare
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p0171 system too lean p0174 system too lean p0452 Evap emission system pressure sensor low P1870 (not in my book) P0171 pd P0174 pd

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

CY: Hmm. Interesting about the evap control. The one long trip I took, I did notice shift from 1 to 2 gear had a bit of klunk to it. Not noticed it since then, but since that time has been short trips. Not cross country.

Then

CY: One friend suggested bad P-C-V which is very possible reason why it uses oil. I'll change that, and also the fuel filter one day soon. See if those help at all.

CY: Fluid not low. I did check. Bad vac line, well, very possible. I'll have that checked.

CY: I did have low coolant temp, until I changed the thermostat. Hope that helps, now.

CY: Hope all you want, but prepare to be disappointed.

CY: Do you deliberately sound condescending and superior? Or is it just your writing style?

CY: Arrogant, condescending, superior, and tells stories. What a combination!

CY: Well, sounds like you need a good mechanic to go with you when you look at vehicles to buy.

Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .

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Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Arogant? Nope. I don't just THINK I'm good - I know I am!!!

And I paid what the previous owner was offered by the scrap yard for the Poncho. (and got exactly that back when I scrapped it 90,000km later)

2 out of 26 isn't a bad record in my book - particularly when the 2 totalled less than $1500 purchase price.

My "cost of ownership" which includes initial purchase and all repairs, less recovery on disposal, devided by the number of years owned, has never been over $1000 per year except for the only new car I ever owned. That includes tires and brakes, oil changes and tune-ups, but not gas, insurance or license.

Reply to
clare

Just call a spade a spade. Your automotive knowledge is just enough to get yourself into trouble, judging from past postings experience on this site. These are the things you investigate BEFORE putting down money on a vehicle.

I made the mistake of buying the lebaron in the rain at night 70

Reply to
clare

Low fuel pressure from a weak pump or a bad pressure regulator. FPR on that is on the spider inside the manifold. It's not a hard repair BUT if you're there anyway it's a good time to do the fuel nut (lines that feed the spider injector and return extra fuel) and intake gaskets.

Either the sensor is bad or the signal wire from it has shorted to ground. This sensor plugs into a grommeted hole on the top of the fuel tank in the same plate that the pump and sender are under, looks just like a MAP sensor. IF you have small hands it can be changed without dropping the tank.

Bad TCC valve body, Basically the shuttle valve scores the cylinder and the pressure leaks around the valve and you get a jerky 1-2 shift. Common issue. Two options for repair. Replace the valve body in the trans with the revised unit (used in that trans from 1999 on) or you can buy a repair kit. The kit has a reamer and a stainless sleeve plus a new valve shuttle. You pull the valve body, ream the bore, clean the valve body, install the sleeve and re-install. Works real good BUT it's almost as expensive as the new valve body.

You mention using a lot of oil as well. That could be a plugged PCV system causing excessive blow-by or it may have a leaking lower intake gasket. Could also be bad valve stem seals. Or it could be leaking from the valve covers and running down the back of the engine.

Reply to
Steve W.

98 Blazer would be a 4.3 with a spider injector.

Reply to
Steve W.

On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 13:35:39 -0500, "Steve W." wrote

My bad - you are correct - it is the CFI system.

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Reply to
clare

Or it could have been overheated and the rings lost their tension, or it could have been neglected and have the oil control rings stuck, or any of about a half dozen other excuses for letting oil past the rings.

If it's not smoking on cold start, not likely valve seals, but stranger things have happened.

What's the compression like, and what do the plugs look like???

Reply to
clare

Are you doing repairs yourself and if so does that cost include your time?

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

I do my own oil changes and brakes. Other than that I have virtually no repairs. Right now I DO have a minor problem on my wife's 16 year old Ford Taurus (96,000km, purchased about 3 (or is it 4 already) years ago for $6500) - the door ajar light is coming on intermittently, and the alarm goes off if left parked with the alarm armed. I'll have to check that out to see if it is just a $35 switch, a bad wire, or the GEM module. Cost of repairs so far since purchase? a set of tires and front brakes, as well as a $30 part in the PATS system.

My 20 year old ranger, with 373000km on it has gotten a set of U joints, front brakes, and tires, plus I added air conditioning and changed the stereo (the old one still worked but was a cassette player). I bought it about the same time as the Taurus with 307,000km on it for $2400 (actually $1500 + $900 to have the clutch and release bearing replaced and all the fluids changed and safety check)

The tires were not worn out - I upgraded from the stock 14s to 16s.

Reply to
clare

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if you want to see what $2400 will buy. Actually as it sits it's $2800 - I paid $400 for the mags and tires

Reply to
clare

CY: All of those possible. Yes, the vehicle uses oil. When I bought it, the oil was coal tar black. When the title arrives, I'll do the registration and take it in for safetey inspect. At that point, get the oil changed and a fuel filter put on. See what codes are coming back, and return for the re-inspection.

CY: No smoke, cold or hot.

CY: Not checked either.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Thanks for the list of ideas. A friend noted the oil running out. I did see some oil at the back by cylinder 6, where the oil fill is. figured that was people like me pouring outside of the oil fill hole. Who can tell?

Plans for the moment, include fuel filter, and also P-C-V valve. Check for vacuum leaks and air intake leaks after the air filter. Plenty more things to do. Also totally needs an oil chang. Drain out the old coal tar. And some fuel system cleaner fluid.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

The rear of the valve covers are a popular leak on the 4.3 I reseal a lot of them and see oil use drop a lot.

Since it needs an oil/filter. Drop the oil, dump in a 75/25 blend of cheap oil and diesel. Run it for a few minutes till it warms up. Then drop that out. Changes the oil/filter. Now do a couple oil changes in the first 5000 miles. Should undo much of the lack of oil changes.

Reply to
Steve W.

CY: Would it make sense to change the valve cover gaskets, or just pull em apart and seal? Using Permtex IIb non hardening, or, what? I'd got to go back out and look, see what needs to be removed to get at the gaskets. While in there, change spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor?

CY: I've heard of add a quart of transmission fluid a day or two before the oil change. Have you heard of that one? They used to sell a metal quart can of oil system flush, which was probably kerosene. Not sure how bad the lack of oil changes was. Hope nothing catastrophic. Anyhow, thank you again.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

New gaskets are cheap. I'd pull the covers, clean them and the heads. While you're there check the grounds that connect the engine to the body. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are all good things. Pull the front tires and go in under the flaps for the plugs, much easier than bending your hands into pretzels to get them from the top, and it allows you to check the front end at the same time.

Same idea, a high detergent, thin lubricant to dissolve the crud and thin the mix so it comes out clean.

Reply to
Steve W.

Tuesday Nov 03. Found a couple old rotted vacuum hoses, near the master brake cylinder. One collapsed flat. Pulled em out, and cut new hose to size. One by the fender wall, totally miserable to replace. Others not much better.

Did also buy a P-C-V valve. Put that in soon.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Will have to see how possible it is, to pull the valve covers. Might be miserable. Well, probably so.

Going after the sparks through the wheels sounds good. On my 1989 Blazer, the spark #5 was a pain. Two long extensions, one on the end of the other. Got it, after a while.

The air intake tube didn't have any obvious rips or gaps, so that's likely not the runs lean problem.

Hope the Lucas gas system treatment helps. Got a price on fuel filter, today. Got to check think it was cheaper at the other place. Sigh.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Do an engine shampoo to get rid of all the old oil so you can see if there is a current leak. Also makes it easier to fix any leaks that are found.

Reply to
clare

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