98 Blazer starting problems



Since he obviously doesn't know how to use it.
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On 1/10/2014 11:05 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

It's not good manners to flame someone who isn't here, you've not met, and you don't really know his abilities.
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Christopher A. Young
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On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 12:58:35 -0500, Stormin Mormon

Stormy - if he knew how to use it he would be able to check it and tell you for certain if it is a fuel pressure problem. -or have you not been able to start the vehicle and take it in so he is just guessing? Regardless - you DO need to test it - follow the troubleshooting info I have given and get back to me.
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On 1/11/2014 3:18 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

========================= > 2 years since the plugs have been changed? Start there - they will > need changing anyway if you keep the vehicle - but check the cables > for leakage first. >
You don't have the authority to give me orders.
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On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 18:26:13 -0500, Stormin Mormon

Not orders, stormy - just suggestions. You want to fix the Blazer so it starts reliably. Your perogotive to learn from my experience or not. I can guarantee I could pin down where the problem is on that vehicle within 20 minutes of arriving on your doorstep, assuming the vehicle was available.
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On 1/11/2014 9:15 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Clare, do not believe him. He likes being ordered around. You should see his dominatrix! :-)
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On 1/12/2014 10:19 AM, SteveF wrote:

After an hour of begging, I got permission to tell you that's not true.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
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--- Fuel System Problems ----
Fuel pump - Test, connect up gauge and watch it when you turn on the key, Gauge HAS to hit 55psi minimum, higher (up to 65 psi is better). Now start the engine, fuel pressure should stay the same, SNAP the throttle, Pressure should show a momentary change due the the change in vacuum.
It may not be the PUMP itself. BUT the check valve that stops the fuel from draining back is part of the pump, it's on the outlet side of the pump and is designed to A - hold pressure in the system so the vehicle starts when hot (the pressure in the system helps prevent vapor lock in the injection system) B - works with the regulator in the engine to control fuel pressure.
Common symptoms of failure - long crank times, poor starting.
It could be the pressure regulator, that is inside the intake on the injector unit itself. It maintains fuel pressure (55psi MIN. required for the system to operate properly) in the system and uses vacuum inside the intake to control the pressure and volume to the CPI unit based on engine load.
Common symptoms of failure - long crank times, poor starting, lower fuel mileage, smell of gas from the intake.
It could be a problem with the "fuel nut assembly" (AKA the fuel lines just inside the intake on the left side of the engine) they are known for cracking from heat/vibration.
Common symptoms of failure - long crank times, poor starting, lower fuel mileage, smell of gas from the intake.
All of the above are KNOWN issues with the fuel system on the 4.3 All can be tested with 2 pairs of vice grips and a fuel pressure gauge.
Connect gauge, turn key on, watch gauge. Fuel pressure should jump up almost instantly to 55-65 psi and stay there. (This is because the initial key on triggers the ECM to turn the fuel pump on for 3 - 4 seconds. This is to prime the rail because minor leakage in the system components is normal and the pressure may only be 30-40 psi. after setting overnight.)
If the gauge jumps up fast and stays there with LESS than a 10psi drop over 5 minutes the above parts are OK and the problem is elsewhere.
More likely is the pressure will drop very fast, that signals a leak in the system.
So you take the vice grips and go under the vehicle. (The next steps depend on which fuel lines you have, The earlier trucks had metal tanks and rubber flex lines, later trucks have plastic flex lines and the last ones have plastic tanks and plastic flex lines)
There will be three lines, One is pressurized fuel to the engine, one is fuel return to the tank and the last is a vacuum line (works with the EVAP system).
Look them over for ANY leakage. (especially right at the kick-up in the frame right in front of the rear wheel on the drivers side. The fuel lines and rear brake line are there and it collects a LOT of crap and rots the lines.)
You need the pressurized line first. Have a helper turn the key on, as soon as the pressure builds clamp off the pressure line. Watch the gauge. IF the gauge stays where it was when you clamped the line,(with no more than a 10psi drop in 5 minutes) the leak is the valve in the pump. (Usually requires pump module replacement as nobody makes a replacement valve, the original is molded in the top of the module. Sometimes it is rust/dirt blocking it open and you can clean it.)
Still leaking down - Release clamp, turn key on again, when pressure builds clamp off both the pressure and return lines. Watch the gauge.
Pressure holds with NO drop - Pressure regulator is failing internally and leaking fuel back to the tank. Replace pressure regulator. (inside the intake manifold)
Pressure still drops (even a small amount of drop is bad)- Either the pressure regulator, spider unit or the lines are leaking inside the intake. All require the intake to be opened to replace the parts. IF you are going in there plan to replace the FPR and the lines at a minimum. They may be OK now but they WILL fail. The new replacements are better parts.
http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm - Has very good prices and top notch parts.
I usually opt for the upgrade to the "mini-injector" unit from the stock CPI unit, it's a direct bolt in (in most cases, call them and they will make sure) and greatly improves the system.
The above is based on multiple repairs to these systems by myself, and a LOT of discussions with other techs and mechanics about this system and improvements that are possible. (It applies to ALL of the CPI equipped GM engines both V6 and V8)
--
Steve W.


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On 1/12/2014 10:48 AM, Steve W. wrote:

Thank you. I'll save this post, in case it's needed. For now, the truck is doing reasonably well.
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On Thu, 09 Jan 2014 12:55:56 -0500, Stormin Mormon

FIRST of all, determine if it IS a fuel pressure drainback problem. Dead easy. take the cap off the schrader valve on the fuel rail and push in on the valve pin. If it sprays fuel it is NOT a drainback problem. If it doesn't, cycle once and recheck. If you have pressure now, start looking somewhere else for your problem.
Do you have spark on first crank?? - pull wire off of one plug and check. Spark bright blue and snapping? Look elsewhere. If not - check ignition. When were the plugs/wires last changed? Is this a distributor engine or a coil pack engine??
If you squirt half an ounch of gas down the intake, hold the throttle half open, and crank, does it start??? If so it is a fuel problem. Could be a bad engine temp or intake air temp sensor telling the computer the engine is warm when it is not.
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On 1/9/2014 3:44 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

SM: I may try that.

SM: That's a team sport. My arms are too short.
When were the plugs/wires last changed?
SM: Don't know. I got the truck used.
Is this a

SM: Coil on passenger side, next to module. Right next to (what used to be called) carburetor. Distributor cap has four wires one side, three on the other side.

SM: When it refused to start the other day, ether didn't do it.
If so it is a fuel problem.

SM: You know, I'd not thought of that. Thank you.
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On Thu, 09 Jan 2014 16:22:50 -0500, Stormin Mormon

If ether doesn't start it, it is NOT a fuel problem and not a temp sensor problem, most likely. How long have you owned it??? I'm betting on bad plugs/wires Won't start cold and damp - run's reasonably well after starting. Likely costing you extra fuel as well. With the engine running, run your bare hands over the plug wires. If you feel ANY shock, the wires need replacing - yesterday. Also make sure the coil tower and the cap are CLEAN. Would not hurt to replace cap and rotor while you are at it. The whole job will cost you about the equivalent of a tow - - - - -
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Could be the fuel pump is intermittent. Our 95 gave the granddaughter a bit of trouble. She wisely drove straight home where fuel pump dies in the drive way. We were able to get it going again but not for long. New pump all ok.
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