Brake rotor protectant

Friend of mine, has a Buick station wagon, 1993. Neglected to take the grease or wax or whatever off the rotors last time he did front
brakes. We aren't sure, but maybe that was part of why he needed brake pads and rotors again so soon. Does anyone know?
As he was about to put the rotor on, I handed him some spray solvent and paper towels, he didn't know about degreasing the rotors.
Does it make a big difference?
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Christopher A. Young
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What was wrong with the rotors . Did the steel backing plates of the pads eat grooves in them. Which means the pads should of been changed sooner. Were they pitted from rust. Which means they probably ate the new pads. But you should of felt it driving.
Or were they just rusted completely out.
Point being. My Toyota ate the pads at 15,000 miles because my rotors were pitted. From the car sitting too long. I heard them squealers grinding and kept driving for a while . And grooved the rotors. I got new rotors and brakes and just checked them a month ago. And at 21,000 miles they aren't half worn yet. Rotors look excellent.
The noise was rust chunks on the rear drums hitting the backing plates. Which is a good thing here.
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CY: Not sure, some of that.
What was wrong with the rotors . Did the steel backing plates of the pads eat grooves in them. Which means the pads should of been changed sooner.
CY: yes, the steel plates grooved the rotors. I'm sure the pads ought have been changed sooner.
Were they pitted from rust. Which means they probably ate the new pads. But you should of felt it driving.
CY: And the rotors were also rusty. It was someone else's car, so I'm not sure how long he ignored the brakes.
Or were they just rusted completely out.
CY: The inner pads were metal to metal.
Point being. My Toyota ate the pads at 15,000 miles because my rotors were pitted. From the car sitting too long. I heard them squealers grinding and kept driving for a while . And grooved the rotors. I got new rotors and brakes and just checked them a month ago. And at 21,000 miles they aren't half worn yet. Rotors look excellent.
CY: This is a daily driver, so it's not rust like that.
The noise was rust chunks on the rear drums hitting the backing plates. Which is a good thing here.
CY: It's not a good thing here or there. It's not a good t hing any where.
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On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 08:02:08 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

Not really. But after you removed the old rotor's. I'ts a good idea to spray some brake cleaner on everything else. And let it sit for a minute. I usually replace the pads, rotor's and bearings. With NAPPA parts. You can get away with least expensive rotor's. I replaced them, August of 09. Drive 90 miles a day. In stop and go traffic. They are doing well. I drive a 2,001 S-10. Maybe he had a sticking caliper?
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Not really. The coating isn't enough of a coat to really be a problem. Read your other post. Sounds like the caliper was sticking and caused the problem.
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Could have been a sticky caliper. Both rotors were badly grooved, inside surface. The outer pads were OK.
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

Classic signs of stuck calipers. They should slide freely and wear both sides evenly. When they hang up the piston only moves the inner pad and you get that problem.
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Oh, bother. we're in to the rainy season, and the calipers got put back on. I wonder if it would help to remove them (sigh, again) and sand and scrap the slides where the calipers move. Paint the glides with Neversieze, and put it all back together. Might that help? Or is it more likely to be rusty caliper under the rubber seal?
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Stormin Mormon wrote:

I use Sil-glide on the slides and pins. It's a waterproof ultra high temp silicone based grease. Once on it doesn't come off easily and water /salt has NO effect on it. Wear gloves when using and try REALLY hard not to get it on clothes. It's a bear to get out...
Using it makes a BIG difference up here in the NE.
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I'll have to ask after that stuff. I wonder if auto parts places would have it?
Thank you fro the caution about get it on hands and clothes.
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Should be standard procedure on any brake job... All rust build up should be removed back down to the parent metal.

Too thick, the pads and caliper will scrape it off. Use the SylGlide like Steve says or use a purpose based brake lube like CeramiLube.

A seized piston usually can be determined when pushing the piston back to fit the new pads.
Calipers have a finite life, IIRC, this car is fairly old. Might be time.
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Should be standard procedure on any brake job... All rust build up should be removed back down to the parent metal.
CY: Sounds wise.

Too thick, the pads and caliper will scrape it off. Use the SylGlide like Steve says or use a purpose based brake lube like CeramiLube.
CY: Where does one get that grease? I found high temp silicone grease on Ebay, but it was ghastly expensive.

A seized piston usually can be determined when pushing the piston back to fit the new pads.
CY: That's a t hought. Pushed back OK.
Calipers have a finite life, IIRC, this car is fairly old. Might be time.
CY: It's 1993 model. No telling how old the calipers are.
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SylGlide=NAPA, CarQuest. it's a staple product. CeramiLube is available thru Bendix brakes.

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Thanks. Sounds good. I do have Napa and Carquest near me.
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On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 08:02:08 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"

The reason for cleaning the rotors before use is supposedly to get all the machining residue (metal) off of them. Also it is claimed that to get that residue off you must clean them with soap and water, not just solvent brake cleaner. If you don't clean them that way then you will have the metal residue still on the rotors and it will get embedded into the brake pad possibly causing noise or accelerated wear. That's the "official" word I've read on it. Having said all that, for years I never did anything but nowadays I do the whole cleaning routine. Not sure I see any difference in the final product as far as brake performance.
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