Chevy Silverado 2007 classic, no power in aux. outlet

I have a Chevy Silverado 2007 classic. At some point yesterday,
probably due to plugging in too many gadgets into the auxiliary
outlet, it stopped supplying electricity.
Then I plugged in that stuff into the cigarette lighter, which went
out as well.
I then investigated the fuse box and found a blown fuse for the
cigarette lighter. It fixed the lighter.
However, I could not find a fuse for the auxiliary outlet and it
remained dead. I went through all 10 and 15 amp fuses and could not
find a blown one.
So, what am I missing in this story?
Also, I think that cigarette lighter style 12v connectors are not
really suitable for anything requiring more than a couple of amps. The
plug's end was very hot when I took it out (I would say at least
200F). It did not, however, have any signs of arcing.
So I would like to connect a terminal box to a battery, with probably
a 20A fuse, and mount that on my dash. Ideally, it would be good to
also have a switch on it. If there is some integrated product that
does that sort of thing, I would be interested, if not, I can make one
Reply to
1) Less gadgets. (I know-LOL)
2) The Auxiliary outlet should have a 20 amp fuse listed under Aux. Power.
3) If you must keep the gadgets, have a more robust auxiliary power system professionally installed. This will provide multiple power ports that are individually fused.
4) The ampacity rating of the fuse is to protect the wiring, not the device.
5) Cigarette lighter/ Aux. outlets were not designed for continuous maximum current draw.
There are many auxiliary fuse blocks on the market which may be installed in your vehicle. Your under-hood fuse/relay box should have fusible auxiliary outputs that you may use for installing such an item. Remember that the aux-block will require a larger gauge wire that will require a fuse in the under- hood fuse/relay box that is sized to protect that gauge of wire, or the fuse may be smaller.
Do not be afraid to overkill on the wire size, and undershoot on the fuse size. I'd run 8 gauge with a 30 amp fuse to the aux. fuse block, then have multiple 15 amp outlets that use 12 gauge wire.
This will allow for maximum protection off the wire, but will give you the ability to increase the fuse size if such an act is necessary.
Reply to
Which fuse blocks did you check? My '06 Silverado Duramax has one in the driver's side end of the dash and another under the hood on the driver's side. I don't know what is in which block.
Reply to
Ron Recer
I checked the ones near the engine compartment. Now that I think about it, I think that you are right, I should look for another one on the dash.
Reply to
From my cold dead fingers
I thought so, but aux fuse seems OK. I like the other poster's suggestions.
I would like to do this. Do you know how those are called, where can I start looking.
I would DEFINITELY want this. I have some 12v tools and such that I want to be properly powered.
Is that regular car mechanics that do it, or some special outfits?
I am moderately handy, as in, I can fix welding machines, diesels etc (simple fixes only), but I would like this done nicely and properly.
Reply to
Just make sure that you don't use crappy wire crimpers and pull test each termination. If you can't put 15 pounds of tug on the terminal, well, the wire pops out. Not good.
Reply to
I crimp stuff all the time, my crimps are decent. I usually use a pneumatic crimper.
Now, my other question is, where to plug in that fuse block, I mean into which part of the truck's electrical is it usually plugged in.
Reply to
Pop the under-hood fuse/relay box cover and look for some metal plates that have a threaded hole. You will have to run wire from that point out of the box and through the firewall. That's the easiest location that has a workable terminal size and a built in fuse placement.
If your choice is to mount the new fuse-block under the hood and run multiple wires through the fire-wall, the above location or the main junction block may be used. A factory terminated cable might work for this if you are willing to run it un-fused to the new fuse-block, or you may get a fusible link that is factory terminated. Just make sure that the wire does not rub on anything and get some of that split tube to wrap it with.
Reply to
I checked the panel near the driver (inside the cab).
There was a AUX fuse in it, however, it was not blown. I think that a wire going into the AUX socket got unsoldered due to temperature rise from poor contact.
That should be easy to fix, but also, I will install a proper fuse block and will connect some loads (like inverter) to that instead of the cigarette style AUX socket.
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