One of the front shocks is pulled through the frame at the top. So I took them off. Anyone think there's a problem welding washers on the frame for a fix. I may be able to find a 1/4" thick one at work, otherwise they're 1/8". I managed to get the y pipe off the manifold, by getting the nuts off with pb blaster and pounding a 13 mm socket on the rusty 9/16 nuts. Go figure, but the threads on the studs are wiped except where the nuts were at. So how do I get the studs out now. And last but not least, the brake line running down the rt frame rail from the proportional valve to the rear, is leaking at the middle joint and up front by the trans. Is there preformed lines available or should I just get the lengths and bend as I go. Thanks
Was the frame rusty? For a repair, I would be thinking more like a 3/16" thick plate welded to the top. A bolt washer wouldnr hold up, you need to reenforce the top of the spring bucket. Probably something for a welding shop that knows automotive.
Remove the manifold and heat it up with a torch and use a pair of locking pliers to turn out the bolt.
Frame had to be rusty. I've snapped the upper mounts of the frame, but never seen one "pull through" unless the frame was so rusted that the vehicle should be scrapped. If its that bad there, whats the rest of it like? I do not believe the shocks are in the center of the coil springs that year, but rather a stud mount bolted to the frame rail, and then a u-shaped bracket on the lower control arm. Of course the other possiblity is the wrong bushings and washers were used when the shocks were installed if they are in the coil spring. If the spring buckets are rusted that bad, I would serioulsy step back and survey whither its worth pumping more money into it. Replacing brake lines snit hard to do with lengths bought at auto parts store, as long as you can double flare, because the fitting at the combo valve is not standard sized. Use flare nut couplers to connect lengths together, under no circumstances use compression fittings.
GREAT! Now you got me thinkin'! If it is on the stud to the frame, it might have bottomed out hard and ripped it out. The frame would have to be weak to do that though, no matter how its mounted.
The shock has a stud mounted to the upright frame rail with washers. It has no buckets. It was pulled through from rust or the suspension bottomed out. I haven't made a good examination. I think the shock got loose and banged around in the hole until it broke through. The hole not clean it is rusty. The shock is bent all up, but doesn't look that old. I can weld a plate on it I guess, and cut the hole at an angle using hole grinders. The stud doesn't go straight through either, It goes at an angle , like they pressed the angle in making the frame. As far as the amount of money to pump into it, Its exhaust , front shocks and brake lines so far. Rotables as far as I,m concerned on a 25 year old truck. I haven't found anything rigged yet either , as far as making something an abortion to fix. All the lights work, the tires are new, the gas tank don't leak, the steering gearbox frame isn't cracked or rusted. the rear door even works. It runs great. Its an 82 3/4 ton Silverado suburban 20. I am not anywhere near being an optimist either. I don't see anything unsafe yet as far as rust. Its got real clean spots where it should be rotted, like the power steering lines and frame area, and the radiator support area. and rust where it shouldn't like this shock. But there's more then I wished there was. it does have old rustproofing all over it. and plugs in the body. Flaking off like its been there since day one. I may get 1000 miles a year out of it , because I put 8000 on my international in the last 7 years. Using it for hauling 4x8s and pvc. Refrigerators , wood, anything. God rest its soul. So it will probably be used the same. I do hate changing brake lines though. That's what stopped me today after I got the exhaust and shocks off of it. Also its got a transmission in it that isn't a 350 or 400 , and I cant see a module. I'm waiting on a Chilton's from eBay, All I got is a 71-78 Chilton's and international stuff. so I appreciate the help, I haven't been into Chevy's since the early 80s when the 305 camshaft fiasco was going on. I had a Olds Omega SX , Chevy 305
3speed on the floor. "Whitelightning" wrote in message news:_MlWf.5455$qm2.4219@trnddc03...
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