Howdy everyone, don't know if any of you will remember the thread I
started (and got plenty of great information) about three years ago (i
I have a 1949 Chrysler... thought it was going to be a piece of cake
to get it running again... after cranking a billion times, i pulled
the cylinder head to discover about half the valves stuck open. Also
found that #5 cylinder is galled to a fare-thee-well.
Fast-forward to present, Obama-oppressed day. I finally found a
rebuilt engine near Pensacola about 8 months ago.. the ol' boy saved
it from the scrap heap just barely, and had been holding onto it for
nearly 20 years.. The alternator and at least one other part had
labels to lead me to believe the engine was overhauled around '92 or
so.. No stuck valves or anything. Clean as a whistle looking into
the lifter galley and the spark plug holes.. The engine has twice the
number of stud holes for mounting the exhaust and intake compared with
the original C45 engine.. The manifolds on this engine are mounted
upside-down compared to the originals. Also, there was a Hoof
governor on there and an updraft carburetor. The exhaust manifold
has provisions for a second downpipe to be mounted... Both downpipes
can be mounted upward or downward. The serial number on the engine
is T249-5504C, which is supposedly a 251 from a truck and it is also
supposedly a Canadian engine. (C on the end)... dunno how it ended up
in panhandle FL..
I have a couple of questions, sorry if they were answered long ago,
but i would just like to re-ask..
Firstly, my 'Motor 1957' manual tells me to drain the transmission
before I remove it (since I have to remove the trans first to get the
engine out) and I would just like to know what type of modern
equivalent oil to re-fill the thing with once i get it back into the
car. I have the M6 transmission and the Fluid Drive as well. Do
they both use the same fluid?
Second, the manual tells me to remove the governor, interrruptor
switch, and shift solenoid before removing the transmission.. There
is a nice access hole in the floor for doing so, but I really really
don't want to pull those things out if I don't have to. As easily as
the front end of the car came off, I don't want to push my luck with
parts I might not be able to replace easily. Is it *absolutely*
necessary to take those things off? I can understand if it is a
clearance issue, but seems like there would be plenty of clearance.
Haven't looked super closely yet, however.
Depending on interest, I will post a link to some pictures of the
progress. The undercoating preserved 98% of the fasteners. All I
had to do was scrape with a screwdriver to clear the head of the bolt
or nut and it came right out. 4 fasteners did break, however, and
the captured nut at the top rear of the right front fender broke
loose, forcing me to dremel the nut off the stud to get the fender
- posted 10 years ago