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1949 Chrysler Royal

Howdy everyone, don't know if any of you will remember the thread I started (and got plenty of great information) about three years ago (i guess)..

I have a 1949 Chrysler... thought it was going to be a piece of cake to get it running again... after cranking a billion times, i pulled the cylinder head to discover about half the valves stuck open. Also found that #5 cylinder is galled to a fare-thee-well.

Fast-forward to present, Obama-oppressed day. I finally found a rebuilt engine near Pensacola about 8 months ago.. the ol' boy saved it from the scrap heap just barely, and had been holding onto it for nearly 20 years.. The alternator and at least one other part had labels to lead me to believe the engine was overhauled around '92 or so.. No stuck valves or anything. Clean as a whistle looking into the lifter galley and the spark plug holes.. The engine has twice the number of stud holes for mounting the exhaust and intake compared with the original C45 engine.. The manifolds on this engine are mounted upside-down compared to the originals. Also, there was a Hoof governor on there and an updraft carburetor. The exhaust manifold has provisions for a second downpipe to be mounted... Both downpipes can be mounted upward or downward. The serial number on the engine is T249-5504C, which is supposedly a 251 from a truck and it is also supposedly a Canadian engine. (C on the end)... dunno how it ended up in panhandle FL..

I have a couple of questions, sorry if they were answered long ago, but i would just like to re-ask.. Firstly, my 'Motor 1957' manual tells me to drain the transmission before I remove it (since I have to remove the trans first to get the engine out) and I would just like to know what type of modern equivalent oil to re-fill the thing with once i get it back into the car. I have the M6 transmission and the Fluid Drive as well. Do they both use the same fluid? Second, the manual tells me to remove the governor, interrruptor switch, and shift solenoid before removing the transmission.. There is a nice access hole in the floor for doing so, but I really really don't want to pull those things out if I don't have to. As easily as the front end of the car came off, I don't want to push my luck with parts I might not be able to replace easily. Is it *absolutely* necessary to take those things off? I can understand if it is a clearance issue, but seems like there would be plenty of clearance. Haven't looked super closely yet, however.

Depending on interest, I will post a link to some pictures of the progress. The undercoating preserved 98% of the fasteners. All I had to do was scrape with a screwdriver to clear the head of the bolt or nut and it came right out. 4 fasteners did break, however, and the captured nut at the top rear of the right front fender broke loose, forcing me to dremel the nut off the stud to get the fender off.

Reply to
Nza
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Ok, back again. Funny how the weather around here was hot, dry, and unbearable for 2 weeks prior to my pulling the car out of storage... now it's monsooning every afternoon.. hahah figures!

I looked again at the manifolds and the block, and I was wrong about the block having more stud holes.. it is the manifolds that have the extra holes to be mounted upside down or downside up, not the block.

One thing I did notice, and I hope it's just an optical contusion, but .... the front of the "new" engine doesn't look like it has the holes to bolt the front engine mount to the engine. I really hope I'm wrong about that. The timing cover looks to be the part of the engine that bolted to the vehicle from which the engine came instead of having a front mount at all.. The cover has a nice flange and two holes spaced about the same distance as the radiator support holes on this '49..

I sure wish I had started working on this thing when I was still a young un... what a mistake!

Thanks for reading and or responding.

Reply to
Nza

Well, dunno if my other message posted, so here goes again.

Sorry if the message shows up and this one turns out to be redundant.

I looked again at the engine and the manifold is the part with the extry holes to mount either way for updraft or downdraft.

The only problem I can see with the engine at the moment is that there may not be enough bolt holes in the front of the block to hold the front engine mount. If that is the case, I dunno what to do. Hopefully, there is enough meat in the block to drill and tap the needed holes..

The timing cover of the new engine looks like it was the part that sat on the frame instead of having a separate bracket for the front engine mount.

Reply to
Nza

Well, I really hoped some 'old-timers' would have seen this by now.. ah well.

Hopefully you guys will... at least to read it.. lol

I will post my progress.

I think maybe the timing cover on the original engine has the mountings for the front engine mount.. who knows, can only find out after i get the engine out of the car.

I'm sure I'm doing it wrong, but I'm having a great time! Nobody can fault me for that... lol

Reply to
Nza

If you still have a Supra, I can answer all your questions! ;)

Reply to
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

Try rec.autos.tech. The old timers seem to hang there.

Reply to
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

I wish I did! I am now down to three celicas... trying to eventually have zero celicas, but nobody wants them for a fair (to me) price.. ah well!

Thanks for the advice! I'll try it.

I finally got the engine out and the transmission the other day... super hot and humid here, makes it tough. If it was cold out, it would be a lot easier.. lol

Reply to
Nza

got some response in alt.autos.dodge.trucks

Reply to
Nza

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