Chrysler is doing better than the US nameplate competition because of the product, specifically the 300 and Magnum, and soon the Charger. Meanwhile, GM has new, generic front-drive cars like LaCrosse, and Ford has new generic front-drive cars like the 500. Actually, the 500 and Montego are nice cars, but should have a little more motor. Still, the competition is pretty tough in the $25-30K generic front-drive car catagory.
When was the last time this vehicle was tuned up with a good set of plugs and wires?, Those carburetors were very easy to overhaul with just a carb kit and a set of floats, has that option been given to you? And was the car put on an oscilloscope to check the primary and secondary voltages? Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
Actually, just a crudded up cap and rotor can cause a lean-running 70s or 80s 318 to kick and buck quite a bit, especially when hot.
Basically, given nothing more than the info above, I'd guess its either fuel starvation (fuel filter, fuel pump) or a secondary ignition problem (coil, wires, plugs). Carb would be a lot further down on my list.
Yup I agree with you
I agree, Steve. There are some good dealerships (which is more than I would have said a couple of years ago) but there are a lot that are not good at all. Prices tend to be higher and work crappier. I have not had one of my cars serviced or repaired at a dealership in about
20 years. Those things I cannot or will not do myself, I take to a dependable independent garage. (You may have to search for them too, but they are out there.)Most, but not all, service or filling stations are to be wary of.
Meanwhile,
GM and Ford have, from all reports I have seen, been very good at making cars that few people want. Both these giants are in dire straits. Their cars are bargains right now.
Chrysler has some interesting cars, if they can overcome the quality stigma that they so justly deserved a couple of decades ago.
Still, quality concerns, gas prices, and state of the economy can play havoc with the best laid plans.
I am not sure about the USA, but here in Canada the CAA (which is our equivalent of the AAA) gives an approval rating to service shops that neet their criteria for competence, honesty and being trustworthy. You might want to ask a local AAA office about any recommended shops near you. They may help whether you are an AAA member or not.
Ken Pisichko Canada
when i was getting my car towed to my usual garage, i asked the CAA guy where he gets his tow trucks repaired. i'll be there next. ...thehick
Sue, over the years, we've run into driveability problems with 5th Ave's as you describe. I'm assuming yours is the v-8, 318 cubic inch, with rear-wheel drive. If that be the case, it's got the "lean-burn" engine management system on it. A quick way to determine if your ECM is faulty is to temporarily swap air cleaners with someone's 5th Ave that is performing correctly. I'm betting the computer, mounted on the air cleaner, is causing your problem. If when you swap--MAKING SURE THE NUMBERS ON THE COMPUTER ARE IDENTICAL--your engine performs correctly, then you can simply replace your computer, maybe a new one from Chrysler, a re-built one from Chrysler, or an after-market one from an auto parts chain, like NAPA. In our experience, the carbs don't give that much trouble--just the computers which control the carb as well as other driveability-related controls. Good luck & HTH. s
performing
replace your
Chrysler, or an
driveability-related
Much appreciated, as were the other tips, none of which she had a chance to try. Sue asked me to monitor the group for answers while she's away for the weekend (sans the 5th Avenue). Finding another 5th Avenue owner to swap air cleaners with could be a problem, but we'll look around.
Thanks, Brother Bob
The other poster is right; the Carter BBD carburetor on this '83 is generally reliable and durable. However, it *is* a feedback carburetor with a duty cycle solenoid that can stick and cause driveability problems (e.g. bucking). That doesn't necessarily mean it needs replacement, but it may need service. Also, your '83 would have an early type of Oxygen sensor that ought to be replaced every 30,000 miles. Most people don't, though, and the sensor finally gives up the ghost and causes driveability faults. The O2 sensor can be found threaded into the front of the driver's side exhaust manifold. Looks like an oversized spark plug. There's one wire leading to it. If you unplug this wire at the connector and the bucking stops...!
Thank You all so very much for your input.I never expected so many responses and appreciate them all. I do feel better about getting my car back on the road now. I will be trying your suggestions and will report back when the problem is (hopefully) solved. Once again, thanks to all...
Well, mystery solved. Even the mechanic was bafffled for awhile, idled fine but bucked once you drove it around for awhile. It was the brakes. I'll try to expain what he said. Once the brakes got heated up and you stepped on the brakes the brake hose was collapsing and when you took your foot off the brake they weren't totally disengaging , almost like driving with your emergency brake on. Make sense? Sure glad I didn't get that new carburator! Thanks again for all your input. You made me keep looking for someone who knew what they were doing instead of just giving up and I'm glad I did.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.