well to answer a few questions Ive been hit with in this post. its a
3.2L engine. and its got 98k miles on it. as for vapor lock and tsb and all that other tech stuff, how does it apply to my car? all i?m looking for is something i can do o have someone do to make my car work. when the engine is running the car runs great. I wanna know how the mild heat from the sun makes the car not run when the 500+degree temps of the engine doesnt make a difference. or even just what is causeing it.
The TSB is a factory service bulletin that applies to '98 Concordes that = have the symptoms of problems starting when the engine is warm or engine running rough after restart when the en= gine was warm. Earlier you had stated that the problems occurred with you car "when its low on gas, and when it= s hot."
Nobody can diagnose your vehicle over the Internet, but read my post wher= e I included information from the factory's TSB. If it were my car I would follow the diagnostic procedur= es in the service manual and this TSB, starting with the TSB. Its diagnostic test is fairly simple if you have = a fuel pressure gauge. Your car may require a new fuel pump module and/or a software update. Or it may be so= mething else completely, again, can't diagnose a vehicle over the Internet.
Please quote one of my posts in this thread that warrants that comment. I have no idea why you would say that.
Why do you and aarcuda keep attributing airplane comments to me. I have not once mentioned airplanes.
And who said they were?
The TSB that Greg quoted said: "Symptom: Hot engine no start, hot engine restart w/ rough idle, or hot engine start/die-out. May have misfire DTCs. ... May not restart until cools. Fuel vapor build up in the fuel rail may be the cause."
Why is it a bad thing that Greg suggests that the OP follow the TSB in this particular case since his symtpoms are pretty close to that, and it applies to the exact vehicle.
Again, please quote me where your comments apply. My original post in its entirety was: "Have it checked for codes.
"Has anyone mentioned crank or cam position sensors to you? Also, if the problem is intermittent, I don't see how someone could rule out fuel system (pump) - unless they caught it in the act of failing and determined that the pump was indeed working when it wouldn't start, in which case they should have been able to isolate the problem."
Is that so terrible? I think aarcuda is saying that the problem is in the fuel pump/sender assembly. But if I suggest that as a possibility in contradiction of what the OP has been told by the mechanics he's consulted, I get hammered. I can't win with you and aarcuda.
I think much of what you have to say is totally unwarranted.
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')
Like I said, none of you so called engineers can read worth a shit. Just a bunch of frustrated Dilberts stuck in their cubicles -wishing- they could do something constructive. You all make me laugh.
Greg, nice job in those last few posts, how convenient that you left off where he said; "about 80% of the time when its above 70 or a sunny day even " That makes you a sneak and a liar.
You must be new here. Sorry, but if you aren't familiar with the other names that I've posted under, you'd probably come to the wrong conclusion that you have. Hard to be directly helpful when the signal to noise ratio gets as high as it is, these soccer daddy mechanics tend to send people on wild goose chases, and they can't stand the thought of someone who has dirt under their fingernails knowing the root reasons and causes for these problems, thus, all the sneering and puffery.
Bill is a cheapskate who fixes what he can on his own cars and farms the rest out and then complains about the cost... fancies himself to be skilled. He's a legend in his own mind. He knows two things, chilly-willy brake rotors and where the input and output speed sensors are on 41te/41le transmissions. He thinks I'm jealous of him and anyone who went to college, which really doesn't make any sense since I get along fine with many other engineers and college educated people who frequent this (and other) newsgroup(s). He's totally befuddled by the fact that I have no respect for him because he's a full of himself blow hard.
Bravo! There are enough differences in the fuel alone to make the comparison a red herring. Yet, for some reason, Matt Whiting feels compelled to remind us on a regular basis that he's a airplane pilot and that makes him smarter than anyone else. (Matt, no one cares)
I'll consider your request.
Actually, I do know the problem, it's a very common one and has/had been the subject of discussion in a professional forum many years ago. Where the confusion starts is that Chrysler expects their mechanics to do the normal routine diagnostics -FIRST- and then check to see if any TSBs APPLY. These numbskulls with the assistance of one Glen Beasley (Mr. Back-flag his time ticket) do things backwards, hence the saying; a TSB in the wrong hands is a dangerous thing. (even when a dealership mechanic is involved)
Well, nice chatting with you. Let's sit back and wait for the comments from the brain trust. (should be good for some laughs and yucks)
Oh, I hadn't realized that you'd gone back to spitting tobacco for a living.
No Dilbert, I've been here a long long time and my memory works just fine.
The wheel bearing thing doesn't count since it only works some of the time. Stethoscope is the only sure fire method.
Bill, I never said that cryogenics -didn't- work, now did I?
Ya see, the thing is, I have a car very identical to yours, it has cheap chinese rotors on it and has had for quite a few years/miles, no chilly-willy, no RT rotors. My brake rotors don't warp, but then, I DO know how to do a proper brake job. The fact that you've needed to resort to cryogenic treatment of your rotors to solve a problem just means to me that you can't solve the root problem and probably shouldn't go anywhere near brake components.
Please, post some more wet dreams, they're quite humorous.
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