I have replaced the serpentine belt 4 times in the last 2 years, once outside at -25. I have just bought a new belt tensioner, and the haynes manual shows a drawing of it but that'a all. On the internet there are loads of procedures on the replacement for the 3.3 or the 3.8 engine's tensioner, but I have not found anything for the 3.0L . The chilton manual I found just shows the belt configuration. The mechanic at the local fixit place will change it for $55. labour, if I buy the part from him for 3 times the price of the part (auto parts store sells for $70. he wants $185.) I rebuilt my 89 Saab and found more info about that than I found about this minivan, Saab people are kind of proud of the tricks they have learned and really love to tell the world. Anyway any one know the simple way to remove that tensioner, do I need the 15mm or 14mm long socket, Thanks for any advice
The most painless way for dealing with these problems is to get Factory Service Manual (FSM) -- if you do no tlike the idea of shelling out $100+ for the FSM then you can get a one day access to the FSM (and print out whatever portions of it you'd like) at
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The cost is $20 for 1 day access to any Chrysler FSM (covers the past
I've recently replaced the heads (and water pump, radiator, timing belt, serpentine belt, alternator, plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, etc as I was in there anyway) on the 3.0L V6, this one being in a 93 Plymouth Sundance Duster - yes, that little car with the 3.0L V6 runs like a rocket. The work included removing and reinstalling the serpentine belt tensioner. Also have had a couple of minivans with the same engine, but none since the early to mid 90's, so I can't testify to the relevance to your engine of the information I am providing. Here it is anyway...
After reading your post, I checked my old Chilton manual for the minivans and was surprised by the lack of information, detail and drawings. If your 98 uses the same Mitsubishi 3.0L V6, as the earlier minivans, try the Haynes manual for the Dodge Shadow/Plymouth Sundance & Duster, manual no 30055. Chapter 2 is the engine overhaul in 3 sub-chapters - 2A is the 4 cyl overhaul, 2B the Mitsubishi 3.0L V6 overhaul, 2C the general engine over haul info. Illustration 10.6c on page 2B-11 is an excellent exploded view of the brackets & pullleys that bolt onto the engine - lots of greasy fingerprints on mine, refered to it a lot. Section 10 in chapter 2B is the timing belt removal and replacement which includes removing the serpentine belt and tensioner. The procedure is to jack up the front passenger side, remove the wheel and the splash guards so you can get to everything, remove the serpentine drive belt. The tensioner pulley is mounted on the housing of what the manual calls the tensioner assembly. Removing the nut in the middle of the pulley only removes the pulley. The tensioner assembly is mounted on the alternator bracket with one bolt that sticks thru the bracket to the rear (defining the front of the engine as where the pulleys are, so the front of the engine is to the passenger side of the car), so you have to reach around behind the alternator bracket to get to the nut (around where the #1 spark plug is). When I did this, the alternator and air cleaner housing were already off; I don't know if you can do this without removing the alternator, but the air cleaner housing I think definitely has to go. Since you already have the serpentine belt off, removing the alternator is a breeze anyway - 2 mounting bolts and 5 nuts for the wiring harness in the Duster.
It's been a couple of months since I did this. I remember lots of frustration involving the front engine mounting plate, power steering pump, and timing belt covers, in particuler what went where first, but I think the tensioner assembly was pretty easy. However, everything done the first time seems to be a challenge.
I could possibly scan & email the diagrams from my book if it would help. Not as good as the FSM's another responder suggested, but far cheaper. The Duster is running great - did it for & with my son, and am envious of the fun he is having.
Hi there, Im now doing replacement of the timing belt tensioner for my
98 voyager 3.0l, the removal of the belt and alternator is not so hard, and seems to have a small and tight access to the tensioner nut at the back of the bracket from the top side, I think it would be easier to handle than from the bottom. The only thing i can't find the way is that i couldn't find any socket to fit that nut to loose the tensioner, i tried 15mm, 16mm,17mm, 9/16'',5/8" and 11/16", both 11/16" and 17mm sockets are too big, the others are too small? Anyone has an idea what tool or bit to use in this case would be helpful, thank you all.
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